Buckram hats...

[Pinto Annie]

I've recently covered several and wondered if anyone would like to know how I do them. I actually remembered to take :ss of the last one I did!

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

I've recently covered several and wondered if anyone would like to know how I do them. I actually remembered to take :ss of the last one I did!

Please! Please! Please! :bow

[Sarah Bernhardt]

I 2nd that vote....Pretty please!

[Pinto Annie]

Oh, you Ladies are so grand!

Ok, now that I've said something, of course, I didn't actually have all the pics I thought I did. But I think there are enough to show you my basic steps.

[Pinto Annie]

First off, I lay out my fabric and decide which should be the base for the chapeau... (sorry, the dress it's based on is a secret for now!)

[Pinto Annie]

And here is the part I forgot to capture on film... I lay my buckram hat on the fabric (doubled as I'll need two of the same size, one for the bottom and the other for the top of the brim). I make sure I have a good inch extra all the way around -- far easier to cut off later than not have enough!

[Pinto Annie]

Now, turn the hat over and draw around the top of the hat -- I use a water soluable fabric pen, then cut out at least an inch wider then the marking.

[Pinto Annie]

I measure the height of the hat and the length I'll need to go around it... pics of this part would certainly be easier, but alas, all 4 hats are covered and off to Diamond Deb for her special finishing touches!!! :tban :tban

[Pinto Annie]

I do the bottom of the hat first -- placing the hat in the center of one of the large cutouts and pinning (like crazy), slightly stretching the fabric to fit...

[Pinto Annie]

Be sure there are no wrinkles or gathers -- the fabric needs to lay very smooth.

Next, the part I don't really like... hand sewing. I baste on the bottom piece all the way around just over the top and inside the edge of the hat. Be sure not to catch the fabic on the bottom side -- I prefer my stitching not show thru! <EDIT!> The part I forgot here was to mention that once you have this piece basted on, trim the fabric to about 1/2 inch from your stitches so that it will lay nicely under the next piece.

[Pinto Annie]

I them put a hole right in the center -- where your head will eventually go and cut a small circle out, then cut slits right to the edge of the hat where the bottom meets the upright part on the inside. I usually make these slits about every inch -- more or less depending upon how your fabric lays. (I again see I was very delinquent in not providing enough pics!)

[Pinto Annie]

I use the circle I cut out as a pattern to cut the same size circle out of the second piece -- and you don't want it quite as large a hole as the exact measurement of the top of the hat. If it's streched slightly it fits better. Pin the heck out of it and baste around the inside (see left arrow) -- this time I usually go clear thru the buckram, catching both the inside and outside pieces so that they stay in place...

[Pinto Annie]

Now for tiny stitches all around the edge! (See right arrow above). Keep that fabric smooth, tucking under as needed.

[Pinto Annie]

My hands are tired just remembering all those tiny hand stitches!!! Ok, let's move on to the top -- pin you piece on...

[Pinto Annie]

This particular hat is more rounded on top, so I choose to take this fabric a bit farther over the edge and down the side than I otherwise would have. Again, baste clear thru the buckram -- I found that a curved needle really helped in this part 'cuz you didn't have to push the needle thru, pull it to the inside of the hat and then keep flipping the hat over and going back and forth!

[Pinto Annie]

Finally, the last piece pinned in place -- I left about 1/2 inche allowances that I simply turned under and then carefully, with tiny stitches tacked in place both top and bottom.

[Lady LaSalle]

Where are you getting your buckram frames from?

[Pinto Annie]

Oh apologies! I thought at one point to add it -- but must not have remembered to actually do it! Those are Hats by Leko at http://www.hatsupply.com/

They are wonderful and what I thought as reasonable... I've tried to do the buckram frames myself :tap -- don't plan on doing that again if I can help it!

[Chantilly]

:ty That was wonderful! Thanks for the link to the frames also!! :tban :tban Looking forward to seeing your hats and gowns together!

[Victoria Rose Hyde]

Awesome class! and :ty for sharing such a cool website.:tban:tban:tban

[Bloomin']

:tyPinto Annie! Great instructions! And thanks for the website - there are some nice frames at great prices!

[Pinto Annie]

Leko is wonderful to chat with when ordering (note the web ordering is NOT secure, so I suggested calling or faxing!). She's very helpful -- don't forget to order hat band material! It's handy! Shipping is really quick too!

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

I've ordered from Leko before.....actually my Mae West hat started out as this: http://www.hatsupply.com/images/Jinsin%20Original.jpg
and then I painted it, shaped it and added the feathers.

[Ida Hands]

Miss Fannie, that's one of my favorite photos. You look WONDERFUL! I have been a Mae West fan since I was a child.