Adding a Gusset to Widen a Sleeve

[Accurate Allie]

I ran into a problem with my Eaton Jacket where the sleeves were too tight to be able to shoot in, and I didn't have enough fabric to re-cut them. I chose to add a gusset for the solution, there may be other ways to do this, this is just the one that I chose.

Here is the sleeve pulled apart, you can see that this is a 2 piece type sleeve and that I already added Aspen Filly's Dancer Gusset to the underarm.

[Accurate Allie]

I know that I need to make the gusset go through the upper arm and down to the elbow, so I measured the length of that, and added 1" for seam allowance (1/2" per side). I also knew that I wanted to add 1" to the width, so I made the gusset 2" wide (1" of space for the sleeve, plus 1/2" seam allowance per side)

I sketched this out on the fabric itself with a chalk pencil, but you could also draw it out on pattern fabric / tracing paper, I was just being lazy.

[Accurate Allie]

I then curved out the actual gusset, I free-handed this one, but you can also use a dress makers curve if you want to be more precise.

[Accurate Allie]

Cut out, and then used those to cut the lining.

[Accurate Allie]

You basically just add the gusset between the 2 sides of the sleeve, and you end up with this:

[Accurate Allie]

One other thing I thought I would share helps with top-stitching corners. I have been top stitching the very edge of my vests and I did it with this also. Going around an outside corner on the VERY edge of the fabric means that there really isn't anything to hang on to and keep going. I use a needle and thread with no knot in it as sort of a handle to pull the corner out again so that the stitching comes out clean.

[Lady Leigh]

I tip my hat to you!! What a neat, informative lesson!! Thank you so much!!

[Dixie McCan]

Dear Allie - OMGosh!
Thank You So Very Much!!!!
:wv:wv:wv

Who knew something like this could be done! But I was certain you'd give a great class!!!

And your note about vest corners helps my Eton Jacket - that's where mine has trouble laying flat. I trimmed all seam corners and pressed well, but not yet happy there. I'm going to try your corner method!

THANK YOU!:kiss

[Ida Hands]

Awesome instructions! And THANK YOU for the picture of how it turns out while wearing it! THANKS! (BTW, Aspen Filly's Dancer gusset?)

[Lady Leigh]

I'm with you, Ida! I have heard of the dancer gusset, but I am a visual person and need to see it up close. Was there a Belle Academy thing on it at one time or something?

[Accurate Allie]

You're welcome everyone! :)

The dancer gusset you can see in the first picture, where the top of the sleeve would normally curve down into the underarm, it comes up to form the gusset. There is a thread on this, but it was in the Sewing forum, and I suspect that it might be gone now.

[Garnet Rose]

You're welcome everyone! :)

The dancer gusset you can see in the first picture, where the top of the sleeve would normally curve down into the underarm, it comes up to form the gusset. There is a thread on this, but it was in the Sewing forum, and I suspect that it might be gone now.


It's still there -- hidden somewhere in this thread:

http://www.carolinabelles.net/vb/showthread.php?p=105919&highlight=gusset#post105919

[Accurate Allie]

Thank you for finding that Garnet Rose! I was looking back in the sewing forum a little while ago and a thread that wasn't that old had disappeared, so I assumed that this one had as well, I am VERY glad that it is still there!

[Victoria Rose Hyde]

Accurate Allie: What an AWESOME Class! :ty