sizing up patterns

[Jolene]

Hi ladies i am not to good with patterns but a larger lady has asked me to make her a bustle gown for next year and i was wondering how i would go about it. Normally if it is something for me i kinda just guess the shape or play with a pattern i have to achieve the right effect (it works for me). So how would i size up a pattern? I was going to use TV432 and need to add 10" to the bust and 11" to the waist.
Thank you
Jolene

[Garnet Rose]

Hi Jolene! Since you're planning to use a TV pattern, you should post your question on the Truly Victorian board: http://www.trulyvictorian.netfirms.com/testboard/phpBB2/

Heather is really good about giving advice for how to alter her patterns. I can't tell you the best method for enlarging the bust measurement, but for enlarging the waist, the easiest way is to widen the side section of the bodice.

[Bloomin']

I agree with Garnet Rose. I've asked Heather several questions and she has been really great!

[Lady Leigh]

Here's the formula Ageless patterns uses, and it's worked fine for me:

Compare the measurement needed from the measurement on the pattern, and subtract the difference.Take the amount of long seams there are on the pattern and multiply by 2 and then divide by that number into the inches you need to add for each .... this will give you what you need to add for the seams. Example: the pattern has 6 seams X 2 = 12, then divide 12 into the number you first came up with on the difference needed from the desired measuremnent and the pattern measurement ... lets say it is a 4 inch difference on bust and 8 inches on waist. Divide 12 into 4 = 5/16ths inch and 11/16ths waist. That's the amount you will be adding to each seam ... and don't forget to add onto the sleeves.

[Auntie Bellum]

When you have extend the original pattern and done your best to get the correct size for the paper pattern, cut it out on muslin and extend the seams to 1" rather than the usual 5/8" or 1/2". Make that up using a long machine stitch and then have the client try it on inside out. Then you can pin it to fit and then sew up the seams where you pinned and then try on again. It's a little trial and error because we are all built differently. When your are both happy with the fit remove the shell and then go over all of the seam lines with a sharpie. Pull the machine stitching out and then you can cut a pattern from the muslin. Just remember to extend your seam lines out 5/8" for your cutting lines.

I have even sent fitting shells to clients and had them fit them and then return and every dress has turned out fine.

Auntie Bellum

[Ida Hands]

Thanks, Ladies, for that REALLY USEFUL information. It's nice to know we share here on The Alley! :tban

[Weaver Gal]

This is great information that I'm sure many of us can use. Fitting is my big bugaboo and I can use all the help I can get on my own dresses! Thanks Ladies for sharing these tips.

[Jolene]

thank you so much for all your advice and help it's great.
Jolene

[Iona Vaquero]

Thank you, thank you. A long while back I asked about a Morning Coat for my husband. I found a nice pattern, but the largest size was 48, his chest is 52". Not that I've really had time to dive into that project, but it's been sitting at the back of mind wondering how in the world I was going to begin to figure that out.

So again, thank you, thank for the question and the brilliant answers.