Fannie's Josie Bonnet

[Bloomin']

Remember the beautiful plaid dress made by maison deverneur and won by Fannie?

The Inspiration....................................... .................................................. ........The Creation


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[Bloomin']

And now, the Josie Bonnet to go with the fabulous dress!!


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[Nellie Blue]

Ohhhh!!! My!!!!! I LOVE that one!!! Hmmm!

[Bloomin']

This is a Denise Nadine pattern for 1879-1880 and tomorrow I will post the photos from start to finish. I gave it to Fannie tonight!

[Nellie Blue]

Would that bonnet work with a late 80's day dress?

[Chantilly]

BEAUTIFUL HAT!! BY, you did wonderful work on that hat!! :tban :tban :tban

[Lady LaSalle]

Oh! Good work honey!!!!!!!!!! It looks wonderful!!!!!!

[Lady LaSalle]

Would that bonnet work with a late 80's day dress?

Nellie, hate to tell you but that would be no. Late 80's were still those big huge flower pot hats. This hat is late 70's early 80's. Sorry toots!

[Nellie Blue]

OK....What about a Katie? Will that work?

[Lady LaSalle]

OK....What about a Katie? Will that work?


Yup! That would do it! :tban

[Nellie Blue]

OK...and the bonnet would be for what time period...would it work for early bustle? I'm not shaped quite right for the Natural Form. :lool :lool :lool

[Kitty Phann]

Really awesome hat BY!!! Fannie is really lucky.

[Lazy K]

Yes. Bonnets were still worn in the late '60's. Actually, bonnets were worn into the turn of the centuary. They were just not fashionable. :lool Older women wore them all the time. And of course, if you were in mourning, bonnets were the way to go.

[Lazy K]

Oh, and BY, you did a great job on the hat!

[Allie Mo]

Bloomin',

The hat is wonderful. What a treasure to have that as a gift. Congratulations Fannie, on another splendid costume.

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

Oh my gosh!!! The pictures do not do justice to "THE HAT"!! It is just too cute! I can't wait to wear it!! It is going with me to Hell On Wheels and will probably be worn on the 4th of July!!
Thank you Bloomin' Yankee!!!! I love it!!!:ty :ty :ty :ty

[Lady Leigh]

I love it!!!! Bloomin', it is just gorgous!! Fannie .... you will look so stunning!!! Congrats to you both!

[Clancy]

Great Bloomim, it looks just beautiful. I cant wait to see Fannie in her dress and the bonnet...Well done,look forward to seeing your class on how you made it.

[Madame Olive Yew]

Stunning! Absolutly Stunning! Well Done Bloomin! :tban :tban :tban

[Ida Hands]

That is REALLY LOVELY! The embellishments are just perfect!

[Denise]

Wonderful job Bloomin'! That is sssoooo cute! The plaid just makes it extra special adorbable doesn't it.

The inspiration for the little Josie bonnet was 1879-1880, however, I can find references to that hat, or a similar versions in 1874, 1877, 1881, 1888, and 1889.

In other words, don't take the frame inspiration date as gospel!

Thanks much for sharing here Bloomin'!

Denise Winter
Historical Clothier
Denise Nadine Design
www.denisenadiendesign.com

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

I love the hat! I think it suites the dress perfectly. BY...you got skills girl! ( shes making me want to try a hat again....bad bad bad bad! )

Cant wait to see this in person!! Its like a treat for all of us!

GG

[Accurate Allie]

Beautiful hat Bloomin'!!! I love all of the lace accents and your lining is very pretty!! (I know you don't see that part normally, but I still think it's very beautifully done!)

[Prairie Wildflower]

Bloomin', you did a fantastic job on the bonnet. Fannie will look sooooo gorgeous in the whole ensemble.

By the way Bloomin', I have the Josie pattern and am dying to start on it, as most of my outfits are NF era, but yup, I'm :chick . I don't want the brim of the bonnet quite as wide (full) as the picture of the bonnet shown on Denise's website. I want it to look more like the inspiration photo for the bonnet. I really like the width of the brim on the one you made - did you cut back on the width at all, and if so, how much? Just wondering. You did a great job - it looks stunning. And I love the lining, too.

[Bloomin']

Well thanks everyone! Fannie chose that hat to go with the dress and, of course, she was right on in her choice! She gave me the fabrics and the flowers and feathers. All I did was assemble it. I'm glad it was my second hat, though (the Katie was my first) because I thought it was a bit more challenging with the plaid, the shirred brim, the ties, and wanting it to be simple but elegant.

Prairie Wildflower, that is exactly the hat pattern. I didn't modify it at all. I'll be getting to posting the pictures soon. I did spent time on the lining because I think it's like having pretty petticoats - you might be the only one that ever sees them, but then, who is more important?!

[Bloomin']

This is the thread where I made my first hat: the Denise Nadine Katie.

http://www.carolinabelles.net/vb/showthread.php?t=6362

I'm really glad I made the Katie first because the directions had pictures that looked like the Katie. The Josie came with the same directions although obviously the bonnet is somewhat different and I had to really think some things through. For the Katie I got the kit where all the materials were included and the pattern was already on the buckram. For the Josie Bonnet I bought just the pattern and it comes with the buckram pattern, the cover pattern, directions, tips, and some specifics about the wire for the Josie.

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[Bloomin']

There are three main pieces to the bonnet: brim, sideband, and crown tip. I traced the pieces with pattern saver and used those to transfer the pattern onto the buckram.

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I also traced any reference points onto the buckram with tracing paper.

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Now the three parts can be cut from the buckram.

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[Lady LaSalle]

OK...and the bonnet would be for what time period...would it work for early bustle? I'm not shaped quite right for the Natural Form. :lool :lool :lool


You could get away with it for early bustle. I think it would be just fine.

[Bloomin']

Denise Nadine has all the supplies and I got the buckram, 19 ga millinery wire, millinery thread, bias tape, needles, and glue brushes from her. Just like with the Katie hat I prepunched holes about 1/4" apart and 1/8" from the edge along all edges where I would sew the wire. I hand sewed it with the lock stitch described in the directions. For the Josie the wire is sewed around the crown tip, the outside edge of the brim, and the lower edge and cutout area of the sideband. This can also be done with a machine.

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[Bloomin']

Then sew bias tape to cover the wired edges of the sideband and brim:

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[Bloomin']

Now it's time to put the crown tip and sideband together to create the crown. I prepunched holes in the top edge of the sideband so that it would be easy to sew the pieces together. The sideband is brought together at the marked seam to make the circle, then sewn. Then the crown tip is sewn on. Lastly glue bias tape over the seam made by the crown tip and the sideband. Hmmmmm, a picture is missing...........


Anyway, now it's time to cut out your fashion fabric from the cover pattern. With the plaid I had to decide how I wanted the pattern on the hat so that is blended with the back of the bodice. The crown tip cover is glued on, and the sideband and brim covers are sewn on.

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[Bloomin']

So now that it finally looks like something anyone could recognize I take it to Blackheart with a big smile on my face :tban :tban And he wants to know if that's all I've done :faint So from now on when he wants to spend some time with me I tell him I have to work on The Hat! Eventually it becomes THE HAT!! :rofl :rofl

[maisondeverneur]

Thank you for posting this Bloomin!! I may now have the courage to have a go at covering the two (yes I know, I cheated!!!) pre-made straw hats I've bought from TV. I don't quite know where to start!

I LOVE the hat you've made for Fannie and I can't wait to see the pics of the whole outfit being worn!!

[Bloomin']

Fannie has given me a beautiful silk which is delicate and almost see-through. If you are using a thin fabric on any part of your hat you would have to put a lining on your hat pieces so that you don't see the bias strips. I decide that a gather on the inside of the brim would be attractive and eliminate the need for another layer. I realize that if I simply gather a long piece of silk and place it on the curved brim I would have a sunburst effect with tight gathering at the lower edge of the brim and loose gathering at the top. I wanted the gathering even over the entire brim so I trace the brim with pattern saver, make marks where I want my gathering threads, and mark my seam allowance.

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[Bloomin']

Then I mark my pattern and cut half of it into 1" strips numbering each strip.

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[Bloomin']

I fold my fabric in half and lay the pattern pieces onto the fabric leaving 1" space between them. The marks help me align the pieces so that I get the curve fairly close but have doubled the length of the silk. This doesn't have to be exact and you can eyeball the lines you made fairly easily.

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[Bloomin']

I marked the silk with some pins where I wanted to sew my gathering threads. I put one at the outer edge, one at the seam allowance, and three more in between. I pinned the center and the ends of the silk to the brim and gathered until I had the look I wanted. Then I pinned the silk and sewed it to the brim all the way around.

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[Bloomin']

Now you need a bias strip around the outside edge of the brim which is cut 45 degrees to the selvege edge:

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and sewn to each side of the brim. This is also a good point to cut the tabs in the brim which will be used to attach the crown to the brim.

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[Bloomin']

Sew the two pieces together with millinery thread:

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[Bloomin']

To line this bonnet I cut a crown tip cover and sideband cover from the silk and sewed them together, added my label, then pinned them into the hat and sewed them with a blind stitch onto the brim silk.

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[Bloomin']

Because this was for Fannie, I put the bonnet on the red-headed mannequin and placed lace and trims until it looked just the way I wanted it, sewed them in place, and added the ties to the inside of the bonnet. Blackheart declared it was beautiful! I can't wait to see the pictures of the entire outfit!!!


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[Lazy K]

Thanks BY. Excellent tutorial. Thanks for the details on the shirring.

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

Did you notice that THE HAT is all HAND SEWN!:faint

[Bloomin']

And every stitch holds a prayer Fannie!

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

And every stitch holds a prayer Fannie!

:kiss :kiss :kiss

[Nellie Blue]

How sweet!!!! :kiss :kiss :kiss

Fannie, where did you find the curled feathers?

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

How sweet!!!! :kiss :kiss :kiss

Fannie, where did you find the curled feathers?

I got those feathers at Michael's. There were two in the package for $4.00 or something close to that. Bloomin' Yankee used one feather on THE HAT.

[Allie Mo]

You know what? I wish that all the folks around the world were as sweet as BY and FK and...folks on the Alley!

[Bloomin']

..........and Allie Mo!!........

[Lady Fleur]

I got those feathers at Michael's. There were two in the package for $4.00 or something close to that. Bloomin' Yankee used one feather on THE HAT.
It is in a funny area...
It is in the dried flower section....

[Bloomin']

I tried using both feathers but it covered up so much of the plaid. I decided Fannie could put it on if she wanted more curls :)

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[Goldie]

Bloomin' That hat is so beautiful! I just adore it!! Well done!! Fannie you are a luck lucky lady!

[Madamekat]

That hat is fabulous!! I am bonkers over the ruched/gathered brim. So yummy!

I have a question regarding the lining attachment. I see you pinned the lining to the crown top. What is it pinned to? There isn't any fabric under there...is there? :confused: I don't see any stitches. Is it just pinned to keep things straight, but it's not actually sewn there?? I admit that to keep my hat linings from falling down, I glue them to the crown top!

I am a combination "Laziest Seamstress" and "Most Likely To Use a Shortcut". Lord knows I'll never win any 'historically correct' competitions, but that's ok!

[Lazy K]

Madamekat, I don't know how BY did hers but it is proper and period correct to put a dot of milliner's glue or rubber cement on the inside of the crown to hold the lining in place. You might want to test to make sure your fabric doesn't bleed of anything else wierd.

[Bloomin']

I have a question regarding the lining attachment. I see you pinned the lining to the crown top. What is it pinned to? There isn't any fabric under there...is there? :confused: I don't see any stitches. Is it just pinned to keep things straight, but it's not actually sewn there?? I admit that to keep my hat linings from falling down, I glue them to the crown top!

Hi Madamekat!

Thank you for the compliment about the hat. We're still waiting to see it on Fannie with her red plaid dress!

I think you are referring to the picture in post #40. It looks like I've pinned the lining to the buckram. But what I did was pin the lining seam flat so that I could get a good fit for the rest of the lining. It isn't glued or sewn because as a bonnet which sits on the back of the head I wouldn't have the same problem with the lining falling as with a hat which sits on the top of the head. Lazy K is right, glue would be the good answer in that case.

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

I can't promise when there will be pictures, except to say that this hat and dress will be at Convention, so there will be pictures then. Right now, I can't even think about putting on a corset to take any pictures, my poor belly is too swollen. But, this dress and hat are too beautiful to stay at home when I go to Convention, so this will be one of my day ensembles. I promise to get lots of photos then!!

[Duzy Wales]

Beautiful work Bloomin' and Congratulations to Fannie! She is going to ROCK!:tban :tban

[Madamekat]

BY~
Oh dear, I somehow missed your reply to my question. Thank you so much for explaining!! Yes, I have been using a bit of glue at the top of my hats, and it has worked out splendidly for me. Makes sense that that wouldn't be necessary for a bonnet :D.

Again, beautiful work!!

[Chris Brooks]

:bow That is wonderful. :bow

[Bloomin']

madamekat, we will have to wait and see if my theory about the lining is correct. This is only the second hat I've made :faint

[Sweet Violet]

WOW!! How the heck did I miss this thread? Way wonderful hat Bloomin'!! You did a fabulous job on it!! And I love the way you did the gathering of the underside of the brim!! Very exact!! I can't wait to see it on Fannie!! :jp