Bloomin's Denise Nadine 1886 Hat

[Bloomin']

This is the hat I made for the Bloomin' Rose Dress to wear to the 2007 Oakwood Victorian Tea and Garden Tour.

18556

18557

18558

[Bloomin']

My gown was made by Neatshire Creations and had a tail bodice which I thought was similar to the 1883 Truly Victorian tail bodice pattern. So when I went to Denise Nadine's website to find a correct era hat I found the 1886 Katie. It can be purchased as a pattern, a kit, or a finished buckram frame ready for covering. With no prior hat making experience, I purchased the kit so I could learn about the different parts and hopefully only have to purchase patterns and supplies in the future.

18559

[Bloomin']

The kit contains most everything you need in one package: rough cut buckram pieces, millinery wire, pattern, curved and straight needles, millinery thread, bias tape, glue brushes, and really great instructions. This kit also had an additional sheet of tips that people have submitted as they continue to make this hat.

You will have to supply SOBO or millinery glue, wire cutters, and scissors.

18560

[Bloomin']

The buckram has three pieces: brim, sideband, and crown tip. The first step is to finish cut the buckram pieces with the exception of the hole inside the brim.

18561

18562

[Bloomin']

The instructions guide you in using a sewing machine or hand sewing. For my first hat I decided to hand sew. The inside edge of the brim is stay stitched to be later used as a guide. This is a small punch used for upholstery sewing and comes in kits with upholstery needles. I used it to make small starter holes and then hand sewing was a breeze!

18563

[Bloomin']

The next step is to sew millinery wire to the edges of the brim, crown tip, and lower edge of the side band. If you are using a sewing machine you would use a zig-zag stitch. In hand sewing you use a lock stitch which is just going through each hole twice. Again I used my punch with a small cutting board to start the holes which made hand sewing easy.

18564

[Bloomin']

Now you have a brim, sideband, and crown tip ready to assemble :tban

18565

[Bloomin']

I punched starter holes into the top edge of the sideband to use later. Then I brought the sideband together at the back and sewed the seam to create the crown. Next sew the round crown top onto the circular sideband. This has to be done by hand and with millinery thread and the curved needle so the starter holes are a big help.

With the crown pieces assembled, a strip of bias tape is glued to the top and lower edges to cover the millinery wire. Bias tape is sewn onto the edge of the brim. The center of the brim is removed and the seam allowance cut into tabs which will later be used to attach the crown.

Now you are ready to cover your hat with your fashion fabric.

18566

[Bloomin']

I traced the cover pattern onto pattern saver and cut out my fashion fabric.

18567

[Bloomin']

The crown tip cover is glued onto the top edge of the sideband. The brim covers are sewn onto the brim. I wanted the underside of the brim to have a special effect so this is where I sewed on my fashion fabric with an overlayer of organza. Cut out the center of your fashion fabric where it covers the hole in the brim.

18568

[Bloomin']

The sideband cover is sewn together at its center and then fitted to the sideband. Sew it to the crown tip fabric at the top edge and sew or glue the bottom edge.

18569

[Bloomin']

Now I have to make a bias band to sew around the edge of the brim. :confused: Having no clue what a bias band was I looked it up on the internet at sewing.org. It's fabric cut 45 degrees to the selvage edge. So I got out some tools and created my bias band. I made this band 2" wide.

18570

[Bloomin']

Then turned in the raw edges and sewed it onto the brim.

18571

[Bloomin']

The covered crown and brim!

18573

[Bloomin']

The moment has arrived for a hat to be born!! I kept close track of my center front and back with pins and marks. Stay stitch the fashion fabric to the seam allowance in the center of the brim and then cut the fabric to match the tabs in the buckram. The crown is attached to the brim by sewing the crown onto the tabs. The technique is stitch two tabs over, one back, two over, one back, around the entire crown. This is done by hand and Tada!

18574

18586

18575

[Bloomin']

Time to add the trims!!! I found some fun things that I thought might look pretty on the hat. Lace, trim, feathers, jewelry, ribbon, flowers, butterflies.

18576

[Bloomin']

The gown bodice has a gathered lace down the sleeves so I copied that onto the hat. I started with an insertion lace with a silk ribbon but once it was on the hat I didn't like the ribbon so snip!

18577

18578

[Bloomin']

I also curled some feathers using Sweet Violet's technique but then used them on a different hat.

18579

18580

[Bloomin']

I loved these silk ribbon roses and sewed them on the crown, brim, and even the underside of the brim wherever I thought they looked nice.

18581

[Bloomin']

So here is the hat before I picked up Lazy K from the airport and after. She helped me position the flowers as if they were falling down the crown onto the brim. I roll stitched the edges of some organza which is attached to the back of the hat and falls similar to the tail of the gown bodice. Lazy K made hatpins for all of us attending the Victorian Tea and this one was a perfect match. I love it! Thank you Lazy K!!

Before:
18583

After:

18584
18585

[Ida Hands]

Thank you for a FABULOUS class! It makes me want to rush right over to another window and order my Denise Nadine kit! I will have confidence to try one now! :ty

[Victoria Rose Hyde]

Wonderful Class. :ty Bloomin Yankee

[Madame Olive Yew]

http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/4/4_17_11.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZCxdm565LCUS) http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/4/4_17_11.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZCxdm565LCUS)

Great Class Bloomin!!!:ty :ty :ty

[Allie Mo]

:ty Bloomin!

:bow You made it seem easy. Your hat is so cute and perfect for the costume.

[Chantilly]

http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/4/4_17_11.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZCxdm565LCUS) http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/4/4_17_11.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZCxdm565LCUS)

Great Class Bloomin!!!:ty :ty :ty

YEAH!! Ditto! Bravo!! Bravo!! Beautiful hat! I've had a Denise Nadine kit for over a year and every time I get the parts out, I cringe and put it all back in the bag. Maybe I'll try it now. (I did say MAYBE!)

Lazy K's hat pin is perfect! AND you even have gloves that match exactly! WOW!!

[Clancy]

Great demo Bloomin, i always forget to take phots until after i have completed a step...

Well done on a great hat...

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Perfectly perfect...I think I might have better luck hand sewing the fabric parts...it seams I tried to do that with the machine and I have fits with it tunneling!

You did a really beautiful job with it BY...and it really does look perfect with the dress! I like the fluffly stuff at the back!

[Lazy K]

Nice tutorial. You did a good job on the hat. Next: steaming the brim:waiting

[Sweet Violet]

Wonderful picture journaling and great job on curling the feather!! Yeah you!! You rock!!

[Prairie Wildflower]

Great class - :ty so much. I have 2 DN hat patterns, the Katie and the Josie bonnet. And just like Chantilly, I've taken the patterns out of the bag numerous times, re-read the directions, and then wimp out and put everything away and say "maybe later". But that doesn't get the job done, so now that I can see how each step is done, I am going to have to step up to the plate and just do it. Great pictures and descriptions!!

[Lady Leigh]

Well ... I have a bit more confidence to give this a try! Perhaps I'll start with a kit first, too.