4 corset making techniques

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Hello... My name is GG and I would like to show you 4 corset construction techniques! I hope you will all see something that will be helpful to you when building your own corset!!

For the first I will be building the Laughing Moon Dore'

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

We will be building this corset with the method described in the instructions. Two layers of English coutil with boning chanels sewn through both layers.

Our coutil

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Along with our Laughing Moon (http://http://www.lafnmoon.com/victunder.htm) pattern, and fabric of choice, may I suggest you take a moment to read though Heather's very helpful FAQ page about this pattern over at Truly Victorian (http://trulyvictorian.netfirms.com/LM100.html) where you will get a nice over view of the two styles, how they typically fit, and some good advice on choosing the size you will be cutting out as a starting point.

I like it so much I printed out a copy which I keep pinned to my bulletin board for reference.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Ok once you have decided on a size...this corset is for a 36-26-38 type person. I have chosen a size 14 and will take the waist down to between a 10 and 12.

As suggested in the instructions you want to trace the pattern onto tissue paper or the like. This way you retain your master copy, incase your mock fit is off enough to warrant a retace in a different size.

Here is my pattern traced...I needed to darken the image quite a bit, I trace with a silver quilting pencil.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

ok now we can do something fun! Lets do a simple modification and bring the top of the corset up one inch, remember this corset is designed to be worn UNDER clothing so you saloon girls out there, remember to give yourself that needed coverage, without which you will have a corset hitting mid-bust.:faint

This corset is for underware but desires a little coverage for modesty's sake.

So what you do is place pices 1-2-and 3 so that the tops are flush. The bottom curves will over lap that is ok, you have to remember we are taking a round map rather like the globe and flattening it out. You need the pieces to touch flush where the green lines indicate and you can ignore the red overlapped area.

Tape this down on another sheet of tissue, with each piece taped seperatly.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

very nice... now you can simply sculpt in the line you would like. I put a few tick marks one inch above the first seam where piece 1 and 2 meet, this is the center bust. Then just graduate the line back down into the basic pattern. Like so...if your not sure about the shape here, keep it simple and just folow the line of the pattern, but you can do just about anything you like with this line, points, scallops ect.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

cut those out carefully with your new top line and we are ready to pin! You want to get your bearings with your fabric, do you need to match a repeating pattern? is there a definate up and down? Choose your placement, mark carefully if you are matich a pattern. Our coutil has a simple up and down motif with the roses alternating one growning up and the next growing down. This is nice because the pieces are bottom heavy.This way you can have one piece positioned up and the next down to save fabric! While I may be a coutil snob I am also a penny pinching miser too! Pin wisely...note in the photo, that is an 18 inch ruler, and we need one more layer, and a privacy panel...only the smallest sizes can expect to get away with a 1 yard corset.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

luckily cutting out is pretty straight forward, take your time, the neater you are now the smoother the sewing will be later.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

OK here we go! take out all the pins and set aside your tissue pattern, you will need it again when we cut out the lining... I do not recomend cutting four layers of fabric at a time, as you cut thinkness the scissor blades will be shunted outward and the bottom piece will be slightly bigger than the top piece. In a corset that kind of shift will cause something to pucker some where later. Take your time you are making an investment in your victorian wardrobe.

Lets lay out the corset pieces in order, find space for this and don't skip this step. The first time you have to rip out a seam because you sewed a piece top to bottom or mixed up piece #4 with piece #3 you will thank me for this sanity saving tip.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

even a small sized corset like this one will take up some acreage at this point, make room for it...this step is seriously time saveing as you move along.

with the center together left side in frame above, right side shown here.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

sassafrass! ... I was so busy telling you all to be carefull I forgot to attach the image!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

First seam here we come! I like to work from the center out to the right first then come back and work the center out to the left. If I remember correctly this is the pattern to follow in the instructions as well.

Its extreemly important to pin each piece, corsets have DANGEROUS curves! Pinning carefully now will keep you on the straight and even path to glory.

match the top of piece 1 and 2 flush

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

now instead of working your way down the piece in a straight line you want to do a little step I call "half splitting" from my old circuit board teching days.

Pin the top...now pin the bottom, be aware that pieces 1 and 2 don't match right up. The points sit over top of each other so that at 5/8th of and inch the pieces meet perfectly. Now pin the waist which is actually a little south of center, it indents on all pieces so you can easily identify it. From there pin the center of each section working the fabric evenly together, you will see this concept best on the bottom where you are pinning curves, it will seem like one side has too much fabric (or that it is buckeling) ease it in, it will all fit. Take your time, we are creating a thing of beauty!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

All pinned and ready to have a seat ...at the sewing machine at least! . Your fabric may not want to lay flat right now especially if you use coutil, thats ok as long as your pins are holding the adge all nicely together. Here you can see the buckling that needs to be eased in with pins.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

OK all you Heather fans out there... take a deep breath...exhale, put your brain in standard mode. What is standard mode you ask? Why its 5/8th inch seam allowance. 5/8 5/8 5/8 its a catchy little tune that will keep your size where it should be! ( Oh come on, you KNOW you have all had brain drain here and drifted back to those beloved 1/2 inch marks!!)

5/8 5/8 5/8 sing it with me!:tban

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Back stitch the top and bottom of the seams well, corsets take a ton of stress. Hold those seams together. Speaking of stitches, LM suggests a standard stitch length. For me that is a 2.5 length...I have found 2.0 works best for me. You want a strong stitch but you don't have to go overboard and have painfully close stitches, especially in the wretched event that you need to seam rip a mistake! Thats it! You have sewn your first seam! Wahoo for you!

TIP TIME~

when you extend the top up over the center bust as we have here I find it is very nice to add a slight curve to the top of the seam to cup the corset in toward the body, and here is how I do that. This curve is very slight because the modification is equally slight, only 1 inch. So start your line one inch down from the top of the seam, and curve it gently up to the top. If you extended 2 inches start at the 2 inch point ect. The top of the basic pattern hits right at the fullest part of the bust thats why we start there, then bend the line in to pull the corset agienst the skin. This prevents your corset standing out from the body above the bust line...hug that curve!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Alright its time to stretch, so lets get up from the machine and stretch up and over to the IRONING BOARD! Kendra from "Demode" (http://www.demodecouture.com/) once said "isen't it funny how 80% of sewing is actually ironing??" Truer words were never spoken when it comes to corsets. Press EACH seam after you sew. Be meticulous (marked by extreme or excessive care in the consideration or treatment of details) Be a coffee bean, create beauty from that steamy heat!!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Ok seriously, press press press... I like to press from the outside in. Top to waist, bottom to waist on the worng side pressing the seam firmly open.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Note that if you have that cool little top modification curve, respect its shape too and gently but firmly iron with the point of the iron into the center of the cup we are creating. If you have an iron like a rowenta you can litteraly flatten all your careful work.

Check out that cupping effect and all from a little turned seam and carefull pressing!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

OK wile you are here admiring the right side, press it too, smooth out that seam... I said sewing was 80% ironing didn't I?? :lalala

Just don't get too keen and flatten, if you do flip it back over and work the curve by pulling up agienst the tip of the iron, coutil has great memory and is very forgiving with the proper application of STEAM!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

OK thats the painful parts of piecing... now you just have to do that all over again...several times.

set piece 1 and 2 next to 3

flip 3 onto 2 so that you have right sides together...

Pin Pin Pin ...sew sew sew ...press press...and....

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

{{humming and singing a little tune}}

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

{{ tum dee tum tum tum...}}

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

{{ "opps there goes another rubber tree...opps there goes another rubber tree ...opps there goes another rubber tree plant!" }}:chick

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

TA DA!!!!

You now have one wonderful half of your outer shell!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Ok lets take a potty break, get something to drink, wash your hands if your sewing with white ( I find I want to do that a LOT with white coutil !! even without the potty breaks LOL!!)

When you come back Start back at the top of this thread and sew the center to left side of the outer corset the same way...

see you when your done! :go

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Wow that was quick (don't you love the power of time lapse!)

You now have two well made corset halves. At this point if you were making your mock you would sew the center together, add eyelet tape to the back seams, and check your fit, you can add a few bones with bias tape for structure (I find this very helpful) but once apon a time I did a thread on what to look for in a fitting mock. A good reference is the book The Basics of Corset building a hand book for beginners... (http://www.amazon.com/Basics-Corset-Building-Handbook-Beginners/dp/0973735805/sr=8-2/qid=1171427127/ref=sr_1_2/102-8026838-8646514?ie=UTF8&s=books) ok mine did not cost that much I purchased it from Hedgehog Hand Works (http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT5801.shtml) in fact I think the price has gone up even there.

I have a copy of this book and would be happy to lend it out, pm me if you have an intrest.

OK so what I am saying is that we are moving on past the mock and fitting steps and concentrating on construction. Without taking away the importance of the mock and fitting, which you really need to do for the best results.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Now heres why folks are willing to have thier corsets made FOR them...

All those steps we just took?? We need to to them all again! Thats right we need two layers a complete outter and complete inner....and we havent even touched the steel yet! can you say redundant?

reality check...at this point from picking a size to the outter layer finished I have in real time 2 hours and 40 minutes (I timed this whole corset for reference)

Next we insert the busk...but you will have to be patient until tomorrow because unlike sewing typing this much makes my fingers and wrists hurt, and Nurse Beth said I am to REST ... so now I will

Same time same place tomorrow!:tban

[Ida Hands]

:ty :ty WOW! That was FANTASTIC! Anxious for the next phase! I'll be here! "Same Cat time! Same Cat Channel!"

[Boss Lady]

Wow! I just happen to be home from work today, turn on the computer and log in, and the first thing I notice is this wonderful class on corset making techniques. Thank you so much GG! I used this corset pattern awhile ago, it wasn't that difficult but it just doesn't fit the way I would like it to. I can't wait to try it again. I look forward to Part 2! :ty :tban

[Garnet Rose]

Here's the link to the mock how-to:

http://www.carolinabelles.net/vb/showthread.php?t=1111

[Bloomin']

This is the BEST!!!!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Welcome back... I am suposed to be leading my sparky AWANA group tonight, the jury is still out on wether I should go...but we have several leaders who are ill and without support the group gets canceled. So I am adding the next chunk now so that later tonight I can either rest or be away at the meeting.

So when we left you were working on repeating all the steps and piecing the lining together. Once you have that completed you should have something that looks like this.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

ok so you see where this is going you will have a lining for your corset that will lay out like so...

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

The next thing to do is insert the busk...lets take a moment to get our bearings with it...here is the right side.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

and this is the wrong side...

note* some busks come with a definate bottom and top because the two pegs and loops at the bottom will be closer together, I believe the Farthingales (http://www.farthingalesla.com/busks.php) yep there they are, they claim it is for abdominal support, I claim that they are trying to make you crazy, and that they are discriminating agienst left handed people who might otherwise flip the loops and pegs for a left-right closing instead of the other way around...:tap LOL

Ok no seriously they are fine busks, I just wanted to mention that you need to note the loop placement so you mark the openings corectly.:lalala :rofl
Loops typically go on the right and pegs on the left.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

ok so lets take one side of our corset to be and grab a ruler and mark a nice straight 5/8th line down the center seam where the busk is going in. Be neat, piece 1 may try to schooch away at the waist keep the ruler lined up evenly. I like to use a clear ruler for this.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

now you can lay the loop piece down right on this like with the right side up. you want it centered top to bottom, if you have more than an inch of space at the top LM suggest you place the busk closer to the top, and use an additional hook and eye to close the excess material at the bottom. I think this advice is targeted at folks who order kits, then find they need a longer than expected busk...we are using a 13 inch busk. To avoid this problem, make that mock and measure your length for a busk AFTER you have made all the modifications you want.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

very carefully with the sharpened point of your marking pencil pointing into the loop mark each side of each loop, get in close for a good fit.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

now if you have not pinned them together yet you can pin the outer and the lining right sides together. and your ready to sew. Back stitch at the top and bottom and at the start of each opening so that you have nice strong holes for the loops to pass through that will take the strain you will put on the corset later.

openings marked and sewn

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

press this seam flat...your iron is your friend!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

now line up the loops with the holes ...make sure the right side on the busk!...and push the loops through the hols we just made.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

fold the corset closed and push each loops snug up flush to the seam, you want a nice flat pocket for you busk not a puckered one.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Tip Time!

Place a pin by each loop bring the point up firmly agienst the steel holding the loop securely ...do this for every loop.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Glossing over the teachers fuzzy bathrobe sleeve...
:lalala

this is what you have with the loops all pinned and ready to sew in.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Tool Time...

Now you want to switch presser feet. Sewing in the busk will require your zipper foot ...heres what it looks like for my machine.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

ok switch out that foot and lets take a little break, I need to stretch and have a few things to attend to... be back at 3PM to finish placing the busk.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

OK so scratch the 3PM, wresteled some kiddlets, took a nap, took a ahower, tried to convince myself I could go to AWANA...backed instant cookies for snack. Then wisely dropped them off and came home...colds stink.

So we have put the zipper foot on the machine and are ready to proceed with sewing in the loop side of the busk in.

Line up the edge of the corset so that when you get down to steel the foot goes over the edgesnug up next to the foot. For me there is a very nice #2 line on my plate to keep me all straight and even

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

you can see here how the foot is just sitting up on the edge of the steel...if after you start at the top you get to the steel and your machine halts and wont go up...dont grind away at it...just put the needle down, lift up the presser foot and put it back down, sew on. Sometimes it just bumps the edge.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

as you are going along keep a firm presure on the side of the busk to keep it snug to the foot, for and even stitch line.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Lovely! Thas all done...heres what it looks like.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Ok half way there... now lets tackle the peg side of the busk...but first!

Cool Technique!

We are going to put a busk placket into this side of the corset...what is a busk placket you ask? It is a small flap of fabric (coutil in this case) that comes out of the seam on the peg side and slides under the loop side of the busk when fastened. Why do I want/ need one of these you ask? Well mayhap you don't NEED one if this is underware only and you want to keep things simple, scroll down past this part. If you are still here I will tell you they are very handy for corsets being worn Saloon Style sans undergarment...because you will not see flesh between the busk, if your corset is black this really shows up! I think of them as safety devices myself because I don't know why but I can manage to pinch my skin hooking the busk and this prevents that from happening as well. Very nifty little addition to your creation all around.

So you need a 2 1/2 inch by the total length of the center seam strip.

Mine is 2.5 by 14 inches

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

fold it lengthwise and stitch a 1/2 inch seam on each end...

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Clip the seams close turn and PRESS...nice and flat and you have a placket, let go sew it in!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Time to get our bearings again..place your corset halves as they are going to be on you with your finished loop pieces on the right and the peg sides on the left... choose the piece that will end up on the outside of the peg piece (what folks will see) and place a pin in it...in a few minutes when you are too distracted with pinning in the placket you will be glad you can't forget which side is front front and which is back. A little something like this... (pretend you dont see the placket sewn in already! LOL!)

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

ok my cable is doing something funny and it is taking FOREVER to upload the photos...if you lose me I will keep trying here, but we may need to leave off until tomorrow. DSL is back on the 21st (Happy internet SPEED Dance!)

[Cat Cimmaron]

Well I've all ready picked up quite a few tricks that I didn't know how to do. I've never even dared to put a busk in the front of a corset. Of course most of my past ones have been Elizabethan/Tudor and only laced on the sides or in the back. A victorian or edwardian one will be new to me. I'm really enjoying the cass and I'm also getting very sleepy. I'll check in early tomorrow morning.

Hugs and thanks.

[Nellie Blue]

Great job, GG! I wish I would have had this information when I made my first one 3 years ago!

[Lazy K]

Help please. After you've finished making this can you give a class about how to get into a corset!!?? I can hook the top of my busk but as I work my way down, the top loops pop opens. It takes a frustrating FOREVER to get it all hooked up, all the time trying to keep it in place since the back isn't tightened yet. :help :help :help

[Nellie Blue]

K, instead of starting at the top or bottom, start in the middle and work your way down, then work your way up....AND make sure you start with your laces loose enough. :D

[Victoria Rose Hyde]

WOW GG I'm really enjoying this class. Its so informative on how to :sewing a corset. I was afraid to try, but you make it look so easy.:ty :tban :tban

[Bloomin']

Help please. After you've finished making this can you give a class about how to get into a corset!!?? I can hook the top of my busk but as I work my way down, the top loops pop opens. It takes a frustrating FOREVER to get it all hooked up, all the time trying to keep it in place since the back isn't tightened yet. :help :help :help

Maybe this will help. It's how I learned to put on a corset by myself. In her narrative she talks about how sometimes it pops open. In the upper right is a video click and you can see how to lace a corset by yourself. I think it's very good.

http://www.laced.biz/careinst.html

[Lazy K]

Nellie and BY :ty :ty :ty :ty :kiss :kiss :kiss :kiss

Looks Like I need to wear the corset more and that will help with my busk problem

[Madame Olive Yew]

GG,
I started reading this class as you were posting, but it got late into the evening & I went to bed, then promptly forgot. I just remembered it & read through it again from the beguining. THANK YOU! I almost feel like this is something I could do. I have a few questions but I think I will wait until you are completly done with the class before I start asking, you will probably answer most of them in the course of the class. I look forward to reading the next installment.
:ty :ty :ty

Joy

[Ida Hands]

Thank you for this thread. Now I need to find out how to measure for a corset. My TV corset is too large for me. Now I need a new one. AND I NEVER HAVE WORN THE TV! :lool

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Hey everyone, thanks for the patience, K sorry I didnt see your question, but it looks like you got a great answer.

I will be back to post the rest of the construction...until my fingers cramp anyway after dinner. Last night I got the first really good nights sleep this week...breathing freely is a wonderful thing! I am feeling much better today, so I have been digging in to some undone house work that has waited patiently for me all week (if only it would so itself) Matthew has a four day weekend and I hate to be at the computer when he is home and I can be enjoying his company instead.

See you after dinner!
GG

[Pinto Annie]

Oh, GG this is wonderful! You've done a great job at making it all sound simple and easy to do! Even with all the sewing I've done, I've never attempted a corset... I just might once my :sewing isn't held hostage by my house & husband any more! :lool

Can't wait for the rest of the installment!! :waiting Now, to figure out how to mark this so I can use it as reference several months from now (but hoping it's not that long!!!).

[Nellie Blue]

Here...let me help you, Pinto Annie...........

Cool....now it will have 5 stars on the list to help you find it! :D :go

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

OK fit of the lazies last night..sorry...lets get some work done this morning!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

OK lets catch back up to where we stopped. We have the loop side of the busk installed. We have fashioned the busk placket we are going to use to both cover peeking skin and keep the fleshy pincjes to themselves. We have also put a pin in the right side facing out of the peg side of the corset, so we dont make holes in the wrong side of the corset for pegs (which would be bad)

Ok so the next thing we need to do is pin in the placket and pin both the outside and lining layers together and we are going to sew a 5/8 seam down the center of the corset. We dont need to do the start and stop motion to make holes for loops her because we get to punch our own holes for the pegs!(fun!)

Fisrt we want to set the placket slightly off the edge of the corset 's center edge...why? Well my mother explains this is cutting bulk down in the seam. when we add pleated and piping decortations we always use this method and I do this without thinking about it much because I was taught this way...So I hope this is a helpful tip.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

OK then you pin this down so that it stays nice and secure. You dont want this trying to schooch out of the seam. THEN pin the lining to this right sides together, you will haves pins sandwiched inbetween. Pin through all payers and we will remove pins next.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Here you can see the pins inside when you lift the lining, once you have all layers pinned these are the ones you can take out, you dont want to hit an unseen pin while sewing.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

OK take this little corset sandwich over to the machine and sew a 5/8 seam in it...then we can open this up and press the placket outward.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

press press press press

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

And the placket should lay out nice and flatcomming out of the center seam in the peg side of the corset. Here you can see how the plack should look.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

As you can see it fits under the loop busk protecting the skin...

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

OK that was fun! Lets mark some pegs and get this baby finished!

Remember that pin...it should you where you holes will be punched for pegs, so open your corset back up and note that the placket is right under where you are about to be stabbing a VERY sharp piece of metal. Keep this in mind when using your awl and dont snag, or stab through the placket...unwanted holes are bad.

What an awl? Well meet my little friend! The type of awl you really want ( no really!) is a tapering awl, you can purchase these at JoAnn Fabrics for around $5 or less, you can also purchase them online if your cant put your hands on one locally. Laughing Moon (http://www.lafnmoon.com/accessories.html)carries them for one.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

but before we make the holes we have to mark the holes... So take your looped buck finished half. Line it up very carefully. You want it perfect from top to bottom and you want to place the edge of the squared off inside on the inside stitch line you just made ( double check you are on the side with the pin!) Ok the image shows the how to line up the loops to mark for the pegs to hook just right.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Marked and ready to make some holes

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Now start at the top or the bottom and work your way along one hole at a time in a straight line. Use your awl to make a hole for your pegs, an awl will seperate the threads making a hole with out breaking any threads. You will brake a few threads with silk and satin but the damage is minimal and nothing like cutting would be if you cut holes with a hole punch you will get fraying here.

Notice you are watching out for your placket , you dont need to make a HUGE hole...just large enough to push a peg through.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

pushing the peg thorugh...

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

and TA DA! a peg securly placed...!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

do this a few more times and you have the entire peg side of the busk placed.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Well we are looking good! Lets take a moment to check out work. Place the busk together and hook it. Look closely at the top and bottom of the corset. If you have worked carefully these will match perfectly. If these edges are even a tiny bit off it will show when the corset is done...having a top and bottom match perfectly is a finished look you want to achieve.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

You are also checking that your busk lines up and hooks correctly too!

Ok so now we need to pin the peg side of the busk the way we did the hook side to sew it in. Push the busk up firmly next to the seam and place pines at each peg to hold the layers and busk from shifting while you sew.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Great take that over to the machine and remember all your tips and techniques we have learned so far.

Zipper foot

5/8th seam

put the needle down lift the presser foot and place it back down if the machine bumps into the top of the busk

keep pressure along the senter seam pushing the busk agienst the zipper foot gently to maintain a straight even line.

You should now have the peg half of your corset complete and looking like this, with the busk sewn between the outter coutil and the lining.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Well done! Now the moment you have been waiting for...hook the busk together, and check your work. You should have a neat busk with working placket, and the top and bottom of the corset matching perfectly!

Fantastic Job! Now thats a corset I would be proud to wear!!

Next lesson we are moving on to boning chanels!

[Lady LaSalle]

And this is why I don't make my own corsets!!!!! LOL!!!

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

And this is why I don't make my own corsets!!!!! LOL!!!

Ditto!!!

Plus, GG needs good models.......:rofl :rofl

[Lady LaSalle]

Yeah, she needs a challenge!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

you can both shut up now...said with love of corse! :rofl :chick

GG

Once we get through this first one the next three wont be so bulky in the posting. You will have seen the pieceing part and putting in the busk is the same as well.

The techniques cover different ideas on lining and bonning.

[Duzy Wales]

You are doing great Gypsy! :chick

[Bloomin']

Don't you just LOVE this place? Guns and sewing and singing and, oh yes, guns....sigh....of course, this Raspberry Godiva I'm munching on right now is also very nice...

[Ida Hands]

Great take that over to the machine and remember all your tips and techniques we have learned so far.

Zipper foot

5/8th seam

put the needle down lift the presser foot and place it back down if the machine bumps into the top of the busk

keep pressure along the senter seam pushing the busk agienst the zipper foot gently to maintain a straight even line.

You should not have the peg half of your corset complete and looking like this

Was that you should NOT have the peg half.....?

This is one SPECTACULAR class I don't know how to thank you for these instructions! (Hmmm, maybe Chocolate.... YES, Miss Bloomin' Raspberry Chocolate!)

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Now have...OPPS SOrry about that Lioness I will go back and edit that! Thanks for the assist!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

BY... Rasberry Godiva?!?!?! Ohhhh do share! I LOVE those things!

We were watching a TV comerical about When you care give Russel Stovers or some such and I told Hubbie Unless you have a chocolate snobby wife like me, then of corse you will need to up the ante to Godiva chocolate.:gg

[Bloomin']

I'll share :chockiss There were six bars in the package: Dark Chocolate with Raspberry, Solid Dark Chocolate, Milk Chocolate with Smooth Caramel, Milk Chocolate with Whole Almonds, Solid Milk Chocolate, and Milk Chocolate with Coconut and Macadamia Nuts. A gift from Blackheart and I know he'd want to share ....so here you go!

I really need to find a way to clone that cowboy :kiss

[Ida Hands]

http://georgehernandez.com/h/xComputers/Communicating/eSpeak/media/y6/40.gif I CAN'T BELIEVE I DIDN'T THINK OF "NOW"! Thanks for clarifying.

[Pinto Annie]

Here...let me help you, Pinto Annie...........

Cool....now it will have 5 stars on the list to help you find it! :D :go

:ty Nellie Blue! That does help in locating this thread! Now if I can just find it when I get my :sewing out of storage! :lool I can't wait to get sewing again. Fortunately Winter Range is only a little more than 2 weeks off... that will help somewhat!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Hey all, super fast here...I expect to be able to post the next chunk Thur. Night. Its going to be a very busy week here so you may not see me around much...lots going on!

[Lady Fleur]

WHAT r U DOIN'

[Ida Hands]

Hey all, super fast here...I expect to be able to post the next chunk Thur. Night. Its going to be a very busy week here so you may not see me around much...lots going on!

I'm surprised, with all you have to do, that we see you here at all! We will wait patiently!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

kids, school, housework, school, husband, school, cooking, school...its pretty much a 24/7 job and I have been sick and not keeping up for over a week...sigh and its all been waiting for me!

[Ida Hands]

Well, we like having you around so you better get well! What would we do and what would The Alley be without our dear Gypsy? Take care of yourself.

[Cat Cimmaron]

GG-thank you so much for this thread. I'd always wondered how to do the posts. Now I know. Looking forward to the rest of the classes.

[Nellie Blue]

GG....and what is the recommended number of spare needles to have on hand? :rofl I've broken 3 today!!! :faint :lool :lool :lool

Back to :sewing

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Hello~ Nellie I broke 8 needles making my first corset... I consider myself rather savy if I manage one now and only break 2-3~ LOL!!

OK I really do have all this just waiting to be posted...and I have made another corset already! I just keep looking at all these photos and typing and think UGH! I have been SUPER tired since being sick...forgive me a little bit more time I really will finish this thread!

GG (the feeble in body and sometimes mind!)

[Nellie Blue]

You take your time and get well....we'll all still be here when you're ready! :kiss

[Ida Hands]

Believe her, WE'LL WAIT PATIENTLY UNTIL YOU ARE ALL BETTER! :tban

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

WOAH did I get wiped out for awhile there....lets try to pick up where I left off...

We now need to fold each side of the corset agienst each other with right sides together and sew the back seam together (5/8th!)

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

then you will iron this seam open, turn the corset to a right side out position again and iron the back seam nice flat.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Here you have ironed the seam and we are ready to sew the first boning chanels

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Now here come the main reason most people do not like this two layer LM method....the next thing you would do is pick stitch each seam, matching up the corset and lining ....lining everything up with stitches you can pull out later ....by hand. Right...kill me now please... I ahve actually done this once, muttering the WHOLE time there must be a better way and then totally frustrated when after I got the chanels sewn in the pick stitching was just tight enough that it is a matter of using a seam ripper on every other stitch and tweesers to get all the treads out....right so not for me. BUT you do absolutly NEED to stablize this corset while you sew chanels or you will get fabric drift, and buckling and a less than wonderful corset.

Sooooo what to do?? Well this is what I do...I pin every seam, very carefully.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

you want to be very careful when you do this ...check the back and make sure you are right on each seam and not listing off to one side...take your time, this could be the most important stem in good corset making.

When you have all the pins placed just so... you want to sew a chanel down the center of each panel. I sew one seam top to bottom, then I turn the corset and sew just to the outside of my 1/4 foot from bottom to top...I read somewhere (and I can not remember where now sorry...) that this keeps the corset balanced, so it wont pull right or left like needle point is want to do if it is not stitched in a certain way...now I just like sewing in this format and I can not say if you sew all top to bottom that it would matter, I read this tip and have been doing this so long now it is habit.

Note the chanel placement in the center. I do every panel except the back in this way (this is a very basic bone placement, you can of corse place bone chanels in many different layouts for design and support styles)

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Next I sew the back chanels for this corset I have made two 1/4 in chanels next to the edge left a space for the grometts and two more 1/4 chanels. here you can do a couple of things, like a 1/2 bone on each side of the grometts or use bonning steels which are heavier steel that have holes drilled through to place grometts though...I will be showing these on another corset technique...remember this is a basic technique.

from the edge 1/4 and then another 1/4 seam...space (I use about 1 inch to 1 inch and 1/4 for the gromett gap) The lines are to give you the idea this photo os very close and the 1/4 seams look much wider than they really are.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

depending ont he size of the corset you may have room for one more boning chanel on the back panel after you place these four bones on either sode of the grometts...for this one I did not as it is a smaller size.

So now you have a chanel in each panel, and four chanels on the back panel on each side of the corset.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

you can now safetly take out all of your pins and sew a seam to either side of each panel seam....these are the bones that will sit on each seam. I sew just inside 1/4 from the seam top to bottom, then turn and go bottom to top...if you pinned well your corset should be stable enough that your chanel will run near perfect on the inside seam as well as on the outside.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Ok... stretch take a break and pat yourself on the back that was the hard part (ok not hard just TEDIOUS!) now we can move on to binding the corset inserting bones, more binding and grometts and lace it and DONE!

Next I like to bind either the bottom or the top of each side of the corset. for this corset I am using satin bias binding bought at my fabric store...this does not seem to be a typical item, I have only found it at Micheal Levines in LA and Betty's locally...I have found it online at a few English corset supply sites as well...it runs from aout 1-2$ a yard.

its double fold, so open it up and place it right along the edge and stitch it across the bottom of the corset outside that the world will see!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

then you fold the tape up and over the edge and hand stitch the inside of the tape to the corset lining...if there is a neat way to do this all by machine I have not found it yet...and I really like the binding to be smooth with out a stitch line showing so this is how I do it...if anyone has a wonderful do it by machine tip I for one would lobe to hear it!!

I fold my end in, then the top down make it all neat and stitch it down with a nice blinde applique stitch.

folding it up and over...

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

fold the end in.... I just realized that does not sould right...you fold the end in while the bias tape is open, then you fold the top down toward the back...stitch stitch stitch.

I think you can see this in the photo

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

and then down like so....

[Ida Hands]

This is SO COOL! I am learning SO MUCH! :ty :ty :ty

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

you do the other end in the same way...now you have either the top or the bottom of the corset bound, you can place bones...there is no rocket science to this I just start at the center, and find the right size bone, I place one in the first seam on both the right and left side of the corset...move on the next untill they are all in. You need just a touch more than 1/2 at the open end to safely bind the remaining edge...here is where you will break needles!! So as you get to each chanel stop your needle down in the fabric...push the bone down and away from the needle and slowly go by it...its not fast but its safe...you will get cocky or careless or just plain forget and you WILL break needles...its the nature of the garment, have some standing by and watch your eyes! ( I wear glasses on purpose when I sew corsets!)

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

SO here we are bottom bound, bones in binding sewn to the top by machine, ready to be hand stitched! All the difficult work is over! Take another break, we will set grometts in the morning!

Have a great night and next is the TV Heather method of construction!

[Cat Cimmaron]

GG: This has been a great class. I've picked up so many hints. Thank you so much.

[Nellie Blue]

Me too! I like how you did the ends of the binding! That's much easier and neater than what I've been doing!

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

Now, I just need to move my computer into the sewing room. :lalala

[Nellie Blue]

Now, I just need to move my computer into the sewing room. :lalala

I'm ahead of you there...I roll my chair back & forth between the sewing machine and the computer...slows my sewing down, though....sometimes I have to tell myself...."no Alley until you sew all the skirt seams" or "you can get on the Alley while the iron heats up"...notice a trend here? I reward my sewing with the Alley! :rofl :rofl :rofl

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

i didnt forget the grommets...i was cleaning the sewing area this weekend and got sucked into sanding an antique desk that has been sitting there since mom went home to florida, i have clutter issues believe it or not, and that desk could be of much better use int he classroom. so i spent all day yesterday sanding today my arms are sore from the vibrations of the power sander...we ordered a colored waterbased stain by min-wax called baltic green- ethans choice. so if the weather holds nice I will do the fine sanding later today and the precondition then thursday we can stain.

so grometts will come later tonight after take a few more advil for the sore arms

gg

[Ida Hands]

How are you feeling today, Miss Gypsy? Did your soreness ever go away? How does that antique desk look? Do we get to see? Hope you're feeling better!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

hey all, thank for keeping me focused lioness, the desk is comming right along, I got it all sanded, the base for the color Ethan choose should be in today or tomorrow for his baltic green.

I have the next installment of grometts and technique 2 Heathers TV contruction ready to go...I have been finding it more and more difficult to get out into the sewing room during the week, it seems the kids take up every second of the day...then I am ready for bed! I wish I were the kind of preson who can stay up and sew after hours but by 9PM its my bedtime too!

Anyone use or have tried the workout videos that are 10 minute danch crunch routiens? I got one at wal mart (9$) on a whim and I have to say if you are out of shape...they are really cool...its just hard enough to work up a good sweat in 10 minutes (somedays finding that 10 minutes is intresting!) there are 5 different segments...mine targest different areas you can use as many or as few as you like the DVD allows you to even put 2-3-4 or even all 5 in which ever order you like. So if you want a 30 minute work out with abs, thighs, cardio you can put them in that order and the DVD plays them just that way...anyway for 9$ I am rather impressed!! I am only doing just one a day right now, when I get the habit down to not skipping and do one a day for a straight week, and dont want to die at the end of the week I will be adding another...yes after 10 minutes I want to die...I am 35 have three kids, and SADLY out of shape...but as I am not anywhere near dead yet, I want to go to HOW in july and I cant button my dresses without Matthew applying extreem force on my corset....I guess I better get off here and go get the next 10 minutes under my to large at the moment belt!

Greeneyed (hmmm I may just repost that for others elsewhere...) Gypsy

[Ida Hands]

But that's 10 minutes you could spend chatting with us here on the Alley! Well, with all the wonderful corset information you have given us, We could surely spare you for 10 minutes! :tban What's the name of that video, by the way?

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

the work out I mentioned is this one.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

since I am posting photos I want to wrap up the pink corset... I somehow manages to misplace the grommets...so I guess we better get along with the TV construction method so I can show that...sorry...

Anyway...if you want to mke your own bias you can cut four strips ( top left and right, bottom left and right) just a touch over two inches wide and use one of these havdy helpers a biad fold maker.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

they come in various sizes I use the 1 inch size for corsets because you are going to use it as double fold...note I serge the edges of the tape? That is because this is silk and it frays terribly...so you may or may not need to do that depending on fabric.

so push the strip through the bias maker and get it even

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

iron iron iron...I like to use lots of steam

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

you want to go slow enough to keep the edges nice and even ...bias can get wonky on you if you dont watch it...when its dont it will look something like this...

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

thats a single fold, now a double fold will be like this and this is the size and shape it will take on the finished corset.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

then like with the bias fold you can purchase you lay it flat right sides together and sew it to the bottom of one half of the corset. I use a 1/2 inch seam for this step.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

then you fold over the tape from the front to the back...

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

on the back you fold it un and the end is folded inside.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

this corset as you can see above is white herringbome coutil flatlined with the pink silk, then lined with another layer of herringbone. The herringbone couil will be you basic coutil, the price will be the mose reasonable (about 19$ a yard) It is strong, thin like a more expensive patternened coutil and the perfect base, for silks, and fashion fabrics. Basically you can put what you like over this stuff, If you are wearing it as underware you want to keep the organic cotons, silks ect in mind they are going to pull sewat off the body and keep you breathing and as cool as possible, for a fashion outer corset...really you can use what you like...its a preference thing in my oppinion.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

OK lets talk about another little friend of mine...the straw needle. Straw needles were introduce to me in Florida when I took an applique technique quilting class (still my favorite style of quilts) this stitch is a blind stitch you should not see it (unless you look closely) I can tell you it shows in silk a little because the silk weave is so fine when you pull your stitch snug you will pull the weave a tiny bit...it very little but just so you dont make yourself crazy trying to get perfectly invisible stitches in silk...in cotton you get a very invisible result.

My are made in Englad, I have only found them in quilting shops so far...I like a size 11 or 12.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

I want to say there are 25 needle in a package so the 2.25$ goes a long way. I also throw away a needle after each corset because believe it or not the density of the coutil with the heat of my fingers and the stitching bends the needles by the time I am done.

Density is why you need these..a normal needle is thick enough you have to PUSH really hard for this step (can you say CRAMPING fingers?!?!)...just be careful with these, they are VERY fine...you can easily puch one into you finger and not notice for a second (ouch!) I wear a leather finger tip thimble which is also a quilting shop goodie... I think they are 10-12 $ and have a small aluminum plate at the tip...I neglected to photograph mine (I will get that for this next corset for you)

I dont know if you can see the difference I tries a macro shot.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

anyway they are about half the thickness of your typical needle. The top is the straw btw.

Ok so you want to come from behind..anchor your knot...come outthe top very very edge of the bias...go in right where you needle came out to the corset lining...push your needle sideways to the left thoguh the top edge fold of the bias about 1/4 inch and come ou again on the very very edge. Repeat. Think of the top fold as a kind of tunner you are sliding your needle though, the needle should remain horizintal for the best result...this take a little practice, quilter who are masters can put something like 18-22 of these stitches per inch, I am thrilled to do 8-10 (for quilt applique). For corsets you only need a consistant 1/4 inch.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

DO that to both of the bottoms...then add your boning. I just lay it out, get out the steel...start from the out side or inside and choose length for each chanel ( then use the same length on both the rt and left for that chanel) and work my way to the inside or outside depending on where I started.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Then you do the exact same thing to the top and sew on the remaining two strips of bias, hand stitch the inside...and your bones are all sealed in...I must have been abducted by aliens at this point because the next photos should be placing grometts...but what I have are finished photos.

I used a venice lace beading at the top (this corset is for a young lady and I want it to be sweet, and like a first...a comming out corset you might say)
I added white brocaded ribbon to the beading I wanted very much to use green for this but could not find the right color ( grrrrr!) and believe i or not tha darker pink was a tricky match too... I am fairly happr with the look of the white, the bow unties, can be used to snug up the top a little if desired.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

right side that is the cotton dummie pattern that lioness found from Lincold mold company... I still need to put in a pole and finish it....

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

the top lace is sewn on by hand too btw...dont think I mentioned that...left side

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

and the back...look grommets! honestly...I cant figure out where those photos went! I used 5 yard cotton laces, my favorite source for cotton laces is Hedgehog Handworks...I also like to by hoops steel tips from them, books, and grometts (they always deliver to me in 2 days! They are in CA)

[Coffee Em]

It's gorgeous! Grown-up, but in a sweet kind of way. I love it!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

TADA!

Ok so the next corset is already in the works I am using HEather's construction ( although not the actual patten) for the next one. This corset is being made from French lily coutil, it is a touch more expensive than the English the hand is a bit different...difficult to explain in words... I really like both English and French coutils and use both all the time I would not really say one preforms better than the other, the pattens are different and the price points though...it just depends on what you are going for you can feel a difference though.

Anyway...the outsides are all done, The lining will be herringbone coutil because this is an underware corset, this particular coutil has enough viscose ( the stuffthat makes the lillies shiney) in it that it is recommended to back it with the 100% cotton herringbone coutil according to the ladies at Farthingales who were very informed and helpful and patient when I visited and asked 10,000 questions! So I will be showing this recommendation.

Two layers again...bonning sewn between the layers, but putting the layers together is different...in fact I think I will be seam ripping because it just occured to me I have started out by sewing the entire outer together and Heathers method is different.

So ignore the photo...but you can see the pretty fabric.:lalala :tap :faint

[Ida Hands]

OH MY! That is such a gorgeous pink corset! And we get an EXTRA class in making BIAS Binding! WOOHOOOO! :tban Thank you Miss GYPSY!

[MaryMcDonalds]

WOW GG!!!
I love the pink corset, it's really great!!!!!!!!!! :faint

[Nellie Blue]

Love the pink corset!!!! OK...I found a source for the bias tape maker! :D But I can't find cotton corset laces on Hedgehog Handworks.... :help I can't stand these nylon laces that I've been getting!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/CS000005.shtml

Nellie she does also have the black and the 8 yard length but does not have them posted on her web site like me she does it all so time for keeping the web site up to date can be hard to find!! I spoke with her last week and mentioned the laces, they are listed on ummm...page 58 I think it is in her printed cataolg as well. They carry SO much more than they have had time to photograph and upload on the web.

[Nellie Blue]

Cool! Thanks! I'll have to get the catalog!

[Yankee Belle]

GG that is one goregous pink corset. I love it.:ty

[Ida Hands]

I haven't been on this thread in a while! Have I missed anything?

[Lady Dallas]

This thread has inspired me to finally make my first corset. I am using Heather's pattern and construction method. I have the body done and will start making the boning channels this weekend. Sure hope Gypsy gets the grommet instructions posed before I start those. :sewing

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Hi all, sorry this has slipped off the to do list for awhile now. Matts gone untill Sun and I probably wont take the time to load the next section umtil maybe this weekend or Monday...There is lots going on here, with sewing and school and the state exam is in 2 weeks so I am just taking care of the priorities right now, I know you will all understand.

[Lazy K]

WHAT??!! Get your priorities straights! We need this corset info NOW!:tap :tap

Oh, ok, I Guess we can wait a little longer <sigh>

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

LMAO!! Whew...ok got done with morning lessons, went and did a little garden shopping, dirt, flowers, seeds, crab grass killer ect ect...did the wekly grocery shopping. The weather is glorious! I amgoing to go get a little toasted on the edges wake up my freckles and do the garden which is so ready for a spring clean up/make over!

Tonight I will be too tired to do anything but sit, so I will get the grommet setting info up here if nothing else!!

Oh and we watched Mary Poppins last night, Berts jacket looks like wide varying widths of reds and oranges, and Marys dress is somewhere between a red and Deep tangering made solf by the white over lays...Of corse the whole corslette has me thinking it might be work fooling with the fine organzia ... ordered a parrot parasol...cant wait till it gets here!

[Lady Dallas]

OK Gypsy. I'm finishing up the boning tonight and will be ready for grommet instruction tomorrow. Please don't make me wait too long....:beg :waiting

[Ida Hands]

That's the Poppins Dress I love best! :tban (LOOK! 2500 POSTS!)

[Lady Dallas]

Got the grommet thing figured out myself and finished my first corset today!!!:tban It's pretty basic. I used the Truly victorian pattern and 2 layers of white twill with an outer layer of bridal satin. I thnk it came out pretty good. Next time I would make it a little smaller. And I know the rules, pics of me in it will be making their way to the Corset thread.

[Chantilly]

Good work Lady Dallas! :tban :tban

[Ida Hands]

It's a real beauty! :lool

[Ida Hands]

If I don't bump this up, I'll LOSE IT! :bump

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Thankyou Lioness...and I really will finish this...next technique is right after 5 dogs...I KNOW...I am slow... it part of my charm:re

[Ida Hands]

We are more than willing to be patient!

[Ida Hands]

Lioness didn't do this. IDA needed it up top... :lool :lool

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

LOL....Ok still not ready to finish this yet...and the funny reason is that I am making corsets but not ones I can share so its still on hold.

Ummmm....there will be at least one more technique before HOW I need a new corset, and its going to be a skeleton technique.

I did do a Heather Technique already bu it became more improtant to get it done and off to its owner than to document it (sorry about that) I will say that her technique is intresting because it leaves little room for error and that is a good thing, I did not personally care for the bulk created on the seam to one side...but its just something that I noticed, and might not be an issue for others. I will do another one though but its not the next one.

IF the shipment gets here with enough time to take photos I will do a floating lining ( thats my own name for it) technique Friday and Sat but I wont post until after I get back from Lancaster.

Of not The skeleton is next then another floating lining then Heathers last.

Thanks for keeping me reminded of this...Ida, and for your great patience with my absentminded professor mentallity.

[Ida Hands]

I promise to be patient, but I needed to bring it up top because I didn't want to have to chase it through all the pages of other posts. I knew if I let it drop, I would get side tracked while looking for it and completely forget what I was looking for while reading.

Thanks for giving us this information. I have made one corset, the TV and it is too large. I want one I can use. My mother has made the LM and now I don't know how.

[Lady Fleur]

Hmm are they fannie secrets??? WANNA SEE WANNA SEE!!
Ok we will wait!:beg

[Ida Hands]

Ooooo, Fannie SECRETS! I wanna see too! :tban

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Ok first I want to ask Fannie or Hugh if I might have clean up control for this class I would like to edit out all the wait time ect and clean up the comments that are not question related to stream line this thread a little as it has run so long. If any ladies who have posted feel miffed about that speak up!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Ok Ladies Greeneyed Gypsy here again at last.
Today we will be constructing a corset using a modified single layer method with a floating lining (well thats what I call it...you can name yours what you like!)

Its a modified single layer because...its not a single layer for one thing...its a brocade silk over coutil. Also because I add an additional layer of coutil at the busk and the back grometts, there are a few ways this is done...I am showing my preference, as with all of my classes this is a corset according to me, and not meant as a finite source of information. ( disclaimer LOL!)

Pictures! Here is the corset all laid out with the pattern pieces already modified...since we are talking about construction, I dont want to bog this down with pattern alteration.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

This is one yard of silk, its narrow, 30 inches wide from salvage to salvage. I wanted to get a really accurate measure of what it take for these as I will be doing a cost list at the end for reference. I added an additional 3/4 yard for the binding and privacy panel

Normally I would not buy a yard ( I buy 2), but this silk was a local purchase and I wanted an approval from Kica before starting the project. This is a silk I have been looking for any good excuse to buy for a long time in fact if she didnt care for it it would have been my next corset! ( Kica no worries I am now in love with the plum and gold you also saw.) Its a true antique french blue shade with a bit brighter blue in the flowers, a pale yellow gold in the dragons (they are standing out vividly in the photo...in person they are very subtle...which I liked) What made it 22.50 a yard though is the small pale yellow rhinstones in the dragons eyes and the flower centers...yep DROOL!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

I am using a 14 inch wedge ( thats not the name...graduated? nope...hmmm it will come to me.) busk. Notice the bottom is a full two inches and the top is 1 inch wide. This give extra strength at the waist where needed and can be tight chinched...a spoon busk is not designed for tight lacing. Why is Kica tight lacing? She is not...she is however dieting with determination...I want her to have as much control over the waist as she cares to breath in all day! She is also very squishy...which to me means you can really chinch her in and she is comfortable. It does NOT mean you carry excess weight although many believe that.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

After cutting out the silk we have very little left...even if she did not request a privacy panel, I would need a bit more. You need 2 inch strips for the binding (four of them, two top and two bottom) which would be 8 inches. So you could JUST get away with a yard and a 1/4 if you were careful. The size on this is mid-reange btw...but even a small size would be a tight fit at one yard. I am also making a busk placket for this...so you need 3.5 inches by the front length for that as well.

So total silk needed 1 and 3/4 yard at 30 inches wide for the brocade.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Ok next I am going to go over the boning chanel method I am using for this corset...but first I am going to make some mac and cheese for luch.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Ok back to work...before I talk about the boning method we are going to use with this corset I thought you might like to see the peach bleck ( I am teasing Cherie here it is beautiful I jus dont like peach) corset for Cherie...this is what it looked like to travel down to Lancaster for a fitting...there is lots of hand stitching left to do but it fit really well I only have one small adjustment to make with it. We didnt nab a picture of her trying it on because we were all too busy cooing and being silly.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

I can never decide if it looks better with or without flash...anyway no flash.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Ok so moving on... We are going to be sewing the seamed chanels this way.

First- you sew the seam for he corset with a 5/8th inch seam ( I am using LM again) so if you use Heathers pattern you will have to adjust for the seam allowance to use this sewing method because there will not be quite enough room for the bone using a 1/2 seam allowance.

Second- you serge the raw edge, I reccomend you drop the blades for this or be very carefull not to cut the fabric.

Third- Iron ( dont you just love all the pressing in corsets!?!?) the seam to one side, I tend to work away from the busk on either side.

Fourth- Stitch the seam alowance down right at the edge of the serging.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Now you have a pretty channel to place the bones for the seams. The bones in between the seams will be made with corset boning tape. The above photos are worked on scrap coutil btw...we will be flatlining the silk onto this coutil now thet we know where we are heading with the seams.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

This is what the right side will look like....I used a pink thread so hopefully the stitches show well enough.

hmmm my photos are doing somehting wierd...give me a bit to take care of some technical difficulties and we will move on

[Ida Hands]

Gotta put it where I will find it. I'm gonna need it again soon.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Ok I officialy stink at finishing photo related threads...I have a few more photos of this corset...then in the middle they get all fuzzy because it seems I needed to do the really close up stuff in macro and didnt. ANYWHOoooo This corset is done and off to its owner...I will see it in action at HOW and get some finished photos.

I just cant relate to you how much I dont want to do any thread related to corsets at the moment. So I hope you all wont throw me out with the bath water...the desire will come back. eventually.

[Allie Mo]

GG,

Never fear, we love you. I haven't been keeping up with this thread. Just want to say, it's going to be beautiful. I wish you hadn't retired and I had the money, I would sure love for you to make me a corset. Your stitching is so meticulous. I know I could never make anything nearly that pretty or perfectly stitched.

Take care,

[Kitty Phann]

It's ok GG I'm just going to wait to make a corset until this is finished.

[Ida Hands]

Is this thread finished? I just don't remember what we were going to do. I know Miss Gypsy has to recover from HOW so, I just thought I would refresh my remembery! http://georgehernandez.com/h/xComputers/Communicating/eSpeak/media/y6/07.gif

[Yankee Belle]

I know. I am waiting for GG to make her TV corset, so I can finish mine. I need help. Oh GG!!! We need you.:waiting

[Ida Hands]

I need to make a new TV corset also. My last one...well, it has already been said.. I can't wait! :tban

[Yankee Belle]

GG are you ignoring this thread?:tap We are waiting for you to finish it. Some of us are wanting to make the TV corset. We love your work.:waiting :kiss

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

No I am not ignorning this thread.

I have custom corsets stacked up until sometime in Oct, and much as I would like to build a corset just because for this thread to show how I work through a particular pattern, time does not always allow for me to do that.

I also do not always have the option to show off a clients corset in progress as they often hope to have a wow factor for their first wearing to an event. So even if I have something on the table, I may not be at liberty to share.

My own corset (the only one I have for myself) is nearly two years old now and has been worn often enough that it is badly in need of being replaced...so I feel your pain.

As I can I will.

[Lady Fleur]

I just have to say GG is the most wonderful woman!! I hope you have had some rest??

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

getting there Fluer...I hope the post wasent snotty....totally not meant that way! Just a yep I know...and I am on it as soon as I can.

I think I read stuffy...ask anybody who has met me in person...so NOT! LOL!

Ok well off to clean my sewing room...I went out there and forgot...oh crap its piled high with everthing that came home from HOW...so I gotta clean up before I start anything new!

[Yankee Belle]

GG I was just giving you a hard time. Please forgive me if I offended you, that was not my intentions.:beg

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

no no no!! not offended...and no appoligy needed at all! I was just saying I think I read stuffy...:gg

I know you were messing with me...and I actually appreciate that ladies remind me and keep me at this thread...:tban

Mostly I am NEARLY done with promised orders and since I quit taking on new stuff I am a little manic to get free and clear. LL you totally dont count so dont even start! :lalala

Greeneyed (tounge in cheek at all times!) Gypsy

[Lady Fleur]

No gg you are VERY hard working!!

[Ida Hands]

Have we reached the four techniques yet? I am confused. Did we do TV? I love this thread. :tban Maybe we can do it over and over and over...:lool

[Nellie Blue]

Back to the top so I can reference the binding technique... :sewing

[Nellie Blue]

:bump Gotta keep this up here so I can get the busk in on the correct sides this time! :rofl

[Nellie Blue]

Loops on the right...pegs on the left...now .... let's see if I can do it right! :lool

[Ida Hands]

Just revisiting. THANKS for the visible clue! Pegs left---loops right! Now I can come here and check when I make one! :tban:tban

[Nellie Blue]

:bump :bump

[Ida Hands]

Same here!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

I am really glad that even though I have not had time to photograph four seperate techniques yet that this has been so helpful!

I don't often make a corset just because I feel like it, and some construction methods don't lend well to a client project...so it was a bit over ambitious to try and cram four methods on one thread.

Gg

[Bloomin']

GG, this thread has been wonderful!!! I was going to start my Laughing Moon corset and after reading this thread again I decided to start with something a little less ambitious. So I'm brushing up by reading Sewing for Dummies. I was reading the chapter about pressing and started to think about how you emphasized press, press, press in this thread. This is from the book:

"Why press and iron and you sew? Sewing changes the texture of the fabric wherever stitching occurs. Seams pucker a bit due to the thread, the fabric, the stitch used, or the shape of the pattern pieces, so for the seam to look good after sewing you must smooth it out by pressing.

"Pressing up and down with the iron sets the stitches so that they become part of the fabric. Ironing back and forth smooths the seam and puts the fabric back as close to its prestitched state as possible. If you don't press and iron while constructing a project, the seams stay as they come out of the sewing machine or serger and the project has a rough, unfinished look."

They recommended pressing the seam flat once, then opening the seam and pressing it open.


Here was something else I didn't know:

1. Sew a vertical seam (like a side seam on a skirt) from the bottom up (hem to waist).
2. Sew a horizontal seam (like a shoulder seam) from the outer edge toward the center.
3. When sewing a collar or facing, sew from the center out to the edge, and then from the center to the other edge.

This is probably old news for all you experienced seamstresses, but for newbies like me it's like gold!!!

GG, thank you again for all your hard work in giving us this thread!!! :ty

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Bloomin thank you! The book is correct, my mom is what I teasingly call an iron natzi...and she obeys all the rules about sewing seams and you should see her lay out a pattern on fabric with nap and pattern!No short cuts for my mom, she is very careful about it which is why I am pretty sure its impossible for her to make anything ugly.

She is from a generation when all the little nicities of sewing were taught, and taught well. Then she took tailoring classes which I have no doubt re-enforced all these lessons.

I still love to watch her construct anything, and learn something new every time!

The information about sewing collars is particularly true and is probably helpful for lots of ladies...you start from the center nad sew our to the front on the right and left this keeps the collar even and equal on both sides so it will not pucker or pull...it also will save you the grief or redoing it to just take your time and do it right the first time (I of corse have to test all these little theories and mess up before I believe...stuborn child that I am) :rofl:lalala

Gg

[Dixie McCan]

Oh, my gosh! Bloomin! that is wonderful information! I'm going to post those three rules near my machine til they sink in! I've just always sewed so my bulk was to the left. I've always known to press, press, press, but not why - except that I'm much happier with my result.

Thank YOu!

[Ida Hands]

Sooooo..........did we ever get to the grommeting thing?

[Ima Darlin']

Thanks for showing those....

[Nellie Blue]

:bump :bump

[Nellie Blue]

:bump :bump

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Nellie! Everytime I see this got bumped I know you are making corsets! LOL! You always make me laugh! :tban:sewing

[Packard]

Nellie! Everytime I see this got bumped I know you are making corsets! LOL! You always make me laugh! :tban:sewing

This is Nellie on Pack's acct on the Blackberry...This time I'm trying to convince Iona how easy they are. :rofl

[Iona Vaquero]

I know how easy they are!! You're so funny. I really am lol right now. I wanted a corslet for that particular outfit so I could embroider it with pink and have something to wear on Pink day. I went through my stash and have 2 or 3 busks laying there just waiting. I'll add them to my never ending list.

I'll get crackin just for Nellie.

[Nellie Blue]

I couldn't sign on as myself and loose all my "new" posts! :D :D :D And I was sitting there in the waiting room killing time! :D :D :D

Good news is...my heart is super dandy and all these stupid health problems that I haven't been telling the Alley about have all been because of a stupid out of control sinus infection. :faint

[Alpine Lil]

Dang Nellie....you gotta tell us
when you're not feeling good so we can give you alittle TLC! :tap

[Nellie Blue]

My not feeling good was minor compared to what others were dealing with. I know I'm loved! :D

[Dixie McCan]

Nelllllllllllllllie!

This is why you've been so quiet! Honey-girl, we love you and want you healthy! There's always some healing prayers to be sent you way, which can sometimes do more than medicine!

[Nellie Blue]

:bump :bump