How to make a bonnet

[Lazy K]

Prairie Wildflower asked me how I made the black bonnet that I showed in Dru’s thread about bonnets. Since it’s easier to show than tell, I decided to post the pics and instuctions here. Right now I only have Part I completed at the end of these pics the hat will be ready to cover. I have no idea how I’m going to cover it (probably in red) so those pics will follow at a later date.

[Lazy K]

This is probably not the Official way to make one of these hats but it works for me

#1 & 2. I use a wooded head block. You can probably use a styrofoam head but you would want to weight it down or attach the bottom to something since you are going to be pulling on the buckram.

Cover the block with plastic or aluminum foil . I mark the plastic down the middle and from side to side. Then I measure the back of my head from ear to ear and from the top of my neck back to the crown of my head. In other words, where the hat is going to sit. I mark the plastic with those measurements and draw the shape of the hat. This is not a precise science here.

[Lazy K]

Cut a piece a buckram about 3” bigger than your “pattern”. I am going to put a roll at the front of my bonnet so I added an additional 2”. My buckram was about 12” x 16”. Wet the buckram. DO NOT WRING. DO NOT SOAK. Hang the buckram for a few minutes to let the excess water drip out.
#3 & 4 Attach the buckram to the centerback with a push pin then gently pull the buckram equally on each side all the way around. You want to get the buckram to lay without wrinkles , Smooth with your hands and keep pulling til it’s smooth. It only has to be smooth over the pattern you drew.

[Lazy K]

#6 & 7 Add push pins around the pattern edge

[Lazy K]

.Now , you can actually skip this step and go onto the Wiring But I like to add some height with the buckram.
#9 I take a small towel and roll it. I lay it at the edge of the pattern, covering the pushpins. I use push pins to hold the towel in place at the back. I’ve trimmed off some of the extra buckram.

[Lazy K]

#10, 11, & 12 Roll the front edge of the buckram over the towel . You may want to pin it to the towel as I did

[Lazy K]

# 13 Place the head in a sunny window and go shop on ebay. You are waiting for the buckram to dry.

[Lazy K]

#14 & 15 Gently remove the towel. Don’t worry if the push pins come out also.

[Lazy K]

# 16 & 17 Now we even up the buckram. Don’t worry about precision. “Close” is good enough.

[Lazy K]

# 18 All the bonnets I’ve seen have a little notch at the base of the head to accomadate hair. Gently remove the buckram from the head . Try it on and make any adjustments. We are ready to wire.

[Lazy K]

#19 & 20 & 21 Attach Millinery wire to the roll of the buckram and the base of the hat. At the back DO NOT attach the wire into the roll. I attached the wire at the roll using the serger, and a zigzag at the base. The Zig zag works best. Or you can use a hand whip stitch.

[Lazy K]

#21 This is what you have when you are finished. Now we’re ready to cover...................
.......To be continued........................

[Lazy K]

That made sense to me. How about you?

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

Bravo!! That was a wonderful class! Are you thru covering it yet? Huh? Huh? Huh? Well.....are you?:lool

[Lazy K]

Well, I've picked out the fabric. So, I'm close , right?

[Lady Fleur]

You can dry it in front of the fire place or with a hair dryer...
I am blocking a green felt in front of the fireplace!!
Did i mention we have had NO HEATER for 3 weeks DARN landlord is messing around...

[Clancy]

Thanks for posting that k, thta is very interesting. I never knew you could wet buckram and re-mould it like that...

Cant wait to see it completely done...

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

Thanks for posting that k, thta is very interesting. I never knew you could wet buckram and re-mould it like that...

Cant wait to see it completely done...

That was new to me also!! I just love this place!! We have some of the most talented and intelligent cowgirls and cowboys on the planet that call The Alley home! Thanks again K!:ty :ty

[Lazy K]

Buckram is cool stuff. Sorta like adobe. You can shape it all sorts of ways. But then ya gotta figure out how to cover it.

[Madame Olive Yew]

Well Done Lazy K!!!!
I feel like I am always learning something new from you!
Thank you!!!

[Texas Butterbean]

That is awesome K. I love the idea of making my own hats or bonnets. I have a question though I'm making a dress from the 1870's a simple day dress. Would a bonnet lke the one shown be correct or not? Inquiring minds want to know. Texas Butterbean

[Lazy K]

Oh, Yes, indeed. This hat would be perfect for a 1870's day dress.

I will be showing pics of how to cover the hat this weekend (I hope) The evening photos with the flash don't turn out well so I'm waiting til I have time during the day to finish up.

[Sweet Violet]

GREAT CLASS!!! You so totally rock lady!! I think I will be making one of these......would it be appropriate for a Natural Form Era mourning dress? Thank you for taking the time to teach us!!!

[Lazy K]

Perfect for the NF mourning! I have 3 mourning bonnets from that era. That's how I taught myself to make these hats.

[Ida Hands]

WOW! You know, you can always count on someone on the Alley to teach you a good lesson! THANKS, Lazy K!!

[Tatted Lady]

Wow, great class.

Will have to add to my "to do" list.

Which is up to 26 things now!!!

[Sweet Violet]

Yes!! Oh thank you Lazy K!! Well, I'm sure to be looking at this class lots in the future!!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Wonderful images and instructions! I have actually read that you can stretch and form buckram but I have never been brave enough to try it! VERY cool! now I actually want to attempt a few things... :ty

I was thinking a canvas weighted wig head might would better than a foam head since the wodden beauties are hard to find and sometimes get expensive. You could cover it in saran wrap the same to protect the canvas and they are totally pinnable. They also make a clamp for the side of the table with a peg to hold the canvas head and you can tilt and turn them any which way.

Greeneyed (things you learn growing up in a hair salon) Gypsy

[Lady Fleur]

I can get those canvas heads and BALD plastic dolly heads from the local beauty college!! If you have one near ASK!!!
If anyone wants a pattern for a canvas head LET ME KNOW i have one!!!

[Lazy K]

Yep, I'm sure the weighted canvas ones would be better than the styrofoam head and look like they would be easy to make.

I got my wooden head on Ebay. I can't remember the price but I'm sure I paid less than $30. And I use it all the time. Here are 3 that are coming up on ebay and are under $20

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Wood-Hat-Block-7-1-2_W0QQitemZ140074261262QQihZ004QQcategoryZ114QQrdZ 1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Wood-Hat-Block-7-3-4_W0QQitemZ140074257981QQihZ004QQcategoryZ114QQrdZ 1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Wood-Hat-Block-7-1-8_W0QQitemZ140074224249QQihZ004QQcategoryZ114QQrdZ 1QQcmdZViewItem

[Ida Hands]

Fleur, I would like to know about that pattern! I have one old Canvashead and I LOVE IT!

[Lady Fleur]

Here is info his head form can be used as a base to make gold mesh cauls or escoffions in place of a Styrofoam head. It can also be used to display hats. You can see examples in the hats section of this site, on the Italian bonnet and attifet page.
There are four Jpg files that make up this pattern you will need to print and join the sections. # 1 and #2 join along the gray line and #3 and #4 join along the gray line. Double check that your printer is printing them out at the correct size, the large gray box should be 1" and the small gray box should be 1cm. Join the pattern pieces on #1 and 2 together along the black line to form one long pattern piece. Sew one each of the long pattern pieces to one of the Head sides matching the black triangles. Then sew the two half together along the center front to center back line. Stuff it as tightly as possible with cotton or synthetic fiberfill. Leave just enough room to slip the wooden or cardboard base into the head opening and be able to pull the fabric over the edge of the wood and staple gun or glue along the bottom edge. If you are using cardboard it is best to laminate three or four layers of corrugated cardboard. I alternate the direction of the layers of cardboard for strength. Once the wood is glued or stapled in place you can screw the head to a wooden place this helps it stay upright. A tightly woven strong fabric is recommended. The final head size is very dependant on the amount of bias stretch in the fabric and just how tightly you stuff your head but you should get a 22" head size. You can get a larger or smaller head by printing the pattern at a percent over 100 or under 100. The following percents are suggestions. 20" 91%, 20.5"94%, 21" 96%, 21.5 98%. 22" 100%. 22.5" 102%. 23" 104%, 23.5" 106%. 24"109%. 24.5"11%. 25"114%.

It might be best to copy the 4 files to your computer and print them in a program like photoshop, they seem to keep the size as is.

[Lady Fleur]

Here is the 4th part

[Lady Fleur]

If you have questions let me know!!

[Lazy K]

Thanks Fluer!! I can see the tops of my kitchen cabinets , with rows of heads displaying my hats!

[Prairie Wildflower]

Lazy K, :ty :ty :ty :ty for doing this class for us. Your detailed instructions/pictures were GREAT. Can't wait to make one. I really appreciate your time and effort in doing this. You're a sweetie.


Yes indeedy, we really do have quite a few wonderful talented and gifted people here on the Alley. We really are blessed to have y'all here.

[Lazy K]

No, problem. That's what I like about the belle site: learning and sharing.

[Lazy K]

I just cut out the paper pattern and wanted to clarify if Fluer doesn't mind. All the zig zags will line up on one side of the pattern. The pieces that say "cut 2" & "Head center" are attached at the Heavy line as the pattern says and NOT on the gray lines at the instructions say. The piece that says
"center front" matches to the "head center" piece. The piece that says "center back" attaches to the "cut 2" piece.

The 4th piece is NOT to the same scale at the other pieces. It is shown at 66.7% and needs to be printed at that size. My printer doen't want to do that some I'm having to work some to get it the right size.

Hope that helps.

[Coffee Em]

K, thanks so much! This is a terrific class, and the notion of forming buckram, rather than using it in flat pieces, is filling my head with dangerous thoughts. (*rubbing her hands together evilly...*)

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Yep I was just about to post that I pringted and am playing with the pattern too...just my neck piece came out a bit smaller but I just gaged it over.

Hmmm and I was at wall mart earlier today, anybody know if they still carry the big bags of pvc pellets for beanie babies??

I think I am going to "flat line" mine with cotton quilt batting then fill with pellets....

I was making a petticoat, ran out of ruffles and then bent the blade on my ruffler foot ( sassafrassin.....:tap ) SOooooo I figure I might as well piddle with this because I aint going back out tonight and its not quite sci-fi time yet ( jake 2.0!)

Some crazy woman from DE want me to draft her some wierd pattern for some low budget film she thinks she is gonna get discovered in ( boy am I dishin' it out here or what??) But I am going to ignore her, because ...well just because I feel like it! LOL!!

ok well onto the sewing bit, I will take a picture and post too.

Greeneyed (what has hat holding needs and hat box deficiencys) Gypsy:chick

[Lady Fleur]

Yes the 4th piece needs to be a little bigger!! Sorry i forgot i had to resize it slightly.. But the other pieces are to scale as mentioned in the paper!!
the neck lines should go the length of the face (connect the 2 pieces with tape) it is kind of like making a baseball with a neck FYI!! I have a printed version from the origional!! i will see if the info is diffrent.....

[Lady Fleur]

Hereis a pic of a made one... They are like 50-80 retail... I have a source for a lower price 37.00 i think i will be ordering from them on monday if anyone wants one long neck or short is 5.00 diffrent!

[Lazy K]

Ok. Time to finish this hat. Well it’s been snowing all day so I don’t have the lighting I wanted to photograph but I’m going to finish up anyway.

I can’t stand Stretch velvet. (which makes one wonder why I have about 50 yards of it and seem to get more every month) But it’s perfect for covering these little bonnets because you can stretch out the wrinkles.

#23 & 24. I place the fabric on my wooden head and guess how much fabric I need to cover the crown. Cut a piece of fabric that size.

[Lazy K]

#25 Pin the fabric over the crwn of the hat, stretching gently to remove wrinkles. If you are using a non-stretch fabric you will have little wrinles around the edge. Turn the bottom edge to the inside of the hat. You can leave all edges ‘raw’ unless you are using a fabric that ravels. Raw edges will be covered later. I stitch everything by hand - no glue (except one square of fabric towards the end) So, stitch the fabric to the buckram.

[Lazy K]

#26 This is what it looks like on the inside

[Lazy K]

#27 & 28 Measure from your stich line to the inside covering the roll and a little beyond. Measure from one end of the roll to the other end. Cut a rectangle that size adding seamm allowance to one long side and the 2 ends.

[Lazy K]

#29 The buckram hat is pretty sturdy and can take SOME abuse. I’ve pulled the roll out flat so it is easier to cover. Press under one long edge of the fabric and pin it to the stitch line on the crown. You will blind stitch the two pieces of fabric together. You will also stitch where I have pinned the fabric: along the edge next to the wire and about half way beteen the wire and the crown.

[Lazy K]

#30 Your hat now looks like this.

[Lazy K]

#31 & 32 Fold the Roll back into place. Stitch the raw edge of fabric to the buckram. My hats are never symetrical so the fabric is a bit wonky looking. Turn under the edges of the fabric at the bottom of the roll and stitch in place. To “refresh” the roll I took a small vitamin bottle, put it in a sock and placed in in the back of the roll. I then steam ironed it slightly. Nows the best time to reshape anything that may have been squished during the covering process.

[Lazy K]

#33 Flatten the bottom of the roll and stitch to the bottom of the hat (sorry for the bad photo)

[Lazy K]

#34 & 35 Lets add the lining! I’m making this for a red and white striped dress so I’m using that fabric for the linging. Measure around the inside of the hat where youve stitched the fabric.( You make want to try the hat on and back sure you can’t see any of the buckram . If you can see buckram you can flatten out roll forward a bit . ) Measure from the fabric to the center of the hat. Cut a rectangle that size adding seam allowance all the way around.

[Lazy K]

#36 Cut a piece of lining 3” - 4” square. This is where I use the “glue”. Using RUBBER CEMENT (ok, not really glue) on the back of the 4 corners of the square, attach it to the center of the inside hat ( I have mine a little low)

[Lazy K]

#37 Sew the lining to the bottom edge of the hat and around the fabric inside the hat. Gather the inside edge of the lining. Press the lining into the hat with your hand as you pull the gathers “tight” so the lining will lay flat in the hat. You will probaley have a little gap which is why you glued in the square earlier.

[Lazy K]

#38 and 39. This is a very simple looking hat. The beauty is in the trimming which I will leave to your imagination. The trim also covers a magnatude of sins so these hats don’t have to be perfect. Mine sure aren’t. The last photo shows where to attach the ribbon. This isn’t the ribbon I will use for the hat but it shows that it will be attached at the center back and at the sides.

One more thing, I like big bows and ribbons on these bonnets but be aware that they get in the way of you long guns. I usually wrap my ribbons under my chin, then around my neck and tie the ribbon at the back of the neck

The End :tban :tban :tban

Questions? Comments?

[Allie Mo]

:ty K,

That was a great class!

Regards,

Allie Mo

[Madame Olive Yew]

Hurray For Lazy K!!! :tban :tban :tban Well Done!!! This has been a very enlightening class. THANK YOU!!!! I'm sure The Alley will be seeing some new bonnets this spring.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Other than how stinkin cool was that!?!? Nope can't think of any... I to hate stretch velevt but sadly to the point that I don't own any...but it surely did work wonderfully for this project!


Thats so neat....I really got to get over it and practive hat making.

[Chantilly]

WOW! Thank you! You make it look so easy. Thanks for saying its ok to squish it a bit and then fix it later. I think that's what makes it a little less scarey to try! BRAVO Lady K!!

[Ida Hands]

Thank you, Miss K for that FABULOUS Class! WONDERFUL pictures! Thank you, Miss Fleur! My mom always said I needed a good head on my shoulders. This should do the trick! I CAN"T WAIT!:ty:ty:ty:tban

[Sweet Violet]

AHhhh yah!! That was awesome! Thanks Lazy K!! You are a wonderful teacher!!

[Lady LaSalle]

Hey! That's awesome! Great job, K! You are an excellent teacher!

[Gwen In LA]

Many thanks for this class. Your photos and text 'make sense" and have soothed most of my worries :) Oh my, I am inspired!

Gwen in l.a.

[Lazy K]

Thanks for your compliments all. I can't wait to see what y'all come up with.

[Coffee Em]

All right, that was a perfect example of the AWESOME. Thank you, K!

[Bloomin']

Lazy K, This was the BEST! I never thought I would attempt a bonnet, and now I'm thinking maybe I just could! Great instructions!! :ty :ty

[Dixie McCan]

:ty :ty :ty

Now I know how to match my hat and my outfit!

[Prairie Wildflower]

AWESOME CLASS, Lazy K. Thank you sooooooooo much for taking the time to do this for us, and for the great step-by-step instructions and pictures. Very much appreciated. You are truly an inspiration. I'm signing up for your next class!! (I think you may have started something here...............) :)

[Lazy K]

Next class??:rofl :rofl :rofl I can't imagine what else I know!

Although, I did buy some more straw and am wanting to make my own straw '80s style hat. Never done it before so maybe I'll photograph as I go along. You can learn from my mistakes!

[Prairie Wildflower]

Lazy K, you're entirely too modest. You do an AWESOME job, and you are an inspiration to us all. Speaking for myself...........YES, YES, YES........please do photo your straw hat-making session and post it for us. Pretty please????

Good grief, I can't hardly blow my nose without the instructions printed out in front of me. I am so in awe of all you ladies who create all these beautiful bonnets, hats, and outfits from pictures and fashion plates. If I ever get to be one-tenth as creative a seamstress as you ladies, I'll consider myself truly blessed.

The Worth Gowns thread - love looking at them - my goal is to someday recreate one - yeah, when pigs fly!!

[Lady Fleur]

Pw the HEAD is comming:lool
Just call me lady Fleur of the guillotine:go

[Nellie Blue]

:bump :bump

[maisondeverneur]

I can't believe I missed this thread!!

Nellie Blue - thank you so much for 'bumping' it!!

Lazy K - you are an amazing lady- thank you!!!!!

[MaryMcDonalds]

I can't believe I missed this thread!!



me too!!!!!!!!!! geeeeees, I have so little time already to make everything I want!!!!! Everytime I lurk around the Alley I see all these things we can make ourselves. Still working on my TV cape, frock coat, lobster bustle..............
a ripple skirt for a friend of mine...........:faint

[Madamekat]

Wow! What a great class!

What weight of buckram do you recommend? I have a pretty tough double weight buckram I get directly from Denise Nadine, but I have a feeling it's too thick for this project.

[Lazy K]

The buckram I used was kinda medium weight. The heavy stuff will work too because once you dampen it it's very pliable.

[Lazy K]

Oh, and welcome aboard Madamekat

[Madamekat]

Thank you!!! I'm very excited to be here. So many wonderful tutorials! I've been reading for hours now!

[Ida Hands]

Did we ever get to see the final result? I mean, with all the flowers, feathers, and googahs?

[Lazy K]

WHAT? You want to see the finished hat? You are so demanding! Back in a bit:go

[Lazy K]

First, I decided I wanted the hat taller so I added an extra "roll" .
Here's the end result

[Lazy K]

side...............................

[Lazy K]

front..................

[Bloomin']

Ohhhh, that's a keeper!!! I'll bet it's stunning on you!! Love the green leaves! Thank you so much for doing this class!!

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

Wow, I love those feathers!! Bravo, bravo!!:bow :bow

[Lazy K]

Everytime I wear this hat I add more feathers to the front!:rofl :rofl I'm going to look like a giant red and white ostrich one of these days!