Do ya'll really use boning in all of your bodices? Now fess up!

[NoGunz Kay]

I was just wondering because I'm at the point where if it really should be done, then now's the time. I can't imagine all of ya'll buying boning for all of your bodices with as many as some of ya'll make. I have a stash of plastic boning, will that do just as well? And one last question, can I sew it to the lining instead of on the inbetween side against the fashion and interlining fabric? This probably sounds silly, but its like I all of a sudden woke up from a fog I've been in for a couple of weeks :sleep , and I want to get that outfit finished so that I have my first official bustle costume.
Thanks all, :)

[Angel Outlaw]

what's boning? :noe

[Allie Mo]

Hi C-Kay,

I think it's best to use bones.

That said... I confess to occasional laziness. I have made bodices without bones. For best results, I flatline with "Trigger." It's a heavy weight poly cotton. Then, I sew the seams together and trim to 1/4 inch. The trigger is so stiff that the darts and seams do a fair job of keeping things upright.

BTW, I always flatline with Trigger, bones or no bones.

Regards,

Allie Lazy Mo

[Lady LaSalle]

I put boning in my first bodice top and hated it. I felt like I was suffocating. I haven't use it in any of my tops since then. After talking to PMS and Gypsy, however, I am going to try it with the next round of dresses that I will be making for myself. We shall see-------I am skeptical, though.

[Clancy]

I use the poly boning in mine. I flat line my fashion fabric but do not make an inner lining. I buy the poly boning already covered and then whip stitch it to the seams where i want it. It does make a bodice sit so much nicer on you. And like Shawn said it isnt there to hold you in.

[Kid Sopris]

[QUOTE=Pretty Mean Shawme]
Yes I really do bone all of my bodices,

" Boning in the morning, Boning the evening, Boning at supper time...."
Everybody sing along... :ban :tban evilb:
:lool :rofl

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

Yes, I do bone every bodice, also. The bodices just do NOT look the same if you don't use boning.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Yep I really do use it too, I am a silly purist, I use the steel stuff ( same that you use in a corset, I put it in a sleeve and sew it down one side to the seam allowance on the back of the fashion fabric, I am getting ready to start a dress for me ( last day dress for convention ...MooHAHAHAAHA :whip ) and I will try to show a picture of it on with no boning and then with...maybe that will help you make a decision. 'corse it maybe a few weeks before I am ready for that... :re

[Tornado Alli]

I wouldn't dare make a bodice without it!! It is what makes the bodice look smooth and fitted to your every "nook and cranny"! And because I use the poly boning as well, it doesn't bother me as far as being constricting. Of course I never wear a victorian bodice without a corset so I never feel the plastic boning!

Angel Outlaw, please go see PMS's class in the Academy. I think you will understand after you review. I would also like to add to that class with "Fitting a Bodice". I just have to get Fannie over here to use as my model! :ss But fitting is crucial to getting that perfect Victorian silhouette!

Anyway, yes I always bone bodices. And speaking of which, there is one waiting on me right now!!! Gotta go! :go :sewing

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

I posted these on the Alley before the "Big Crash". Here is the inside of one of my bodices. You can see where I sew the boning....and I don't do linings, either.

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

Close up of the bodice

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

And this is what it looks like from the outside....

[Nellie Blue]

Ahhhh! My FAVORITE costume!!!

[Allie Mo]

Fannie,

I am shocked! No lining! ;)

Guess that's the difference between owning a serger and not owning one. Gotta get me a serger. That is so much quicker than sewing a lining.

I'm a convert. No lining. Yes bones.

Thanks for the tips.

Regards,

Allie Mo

[Nellie Blue]

Besides...who's going to ask you to take your bodice off at a banquet and ask to inspect the insides!!! :lool

[Lizzie Marie]

depends on who and how much tequila... :noe

[Nellie Blue]

:rofl :rofl :rofl

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

Ahhhh! My FAVORITE costume!!!
Ahhh...thanks! :kiss That is Bulls Head Bill's favorite dress on me, too!

Linings are not actually period correct....acetate did not exist in the 19th century. :rofl If you look at any extant bodices you will see that all the seams are exposed. This is very handy for alterations and repairs and boy does it save time! I absolutely hate making a lining!! :bhd

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

Shawme is right, make sure you flatline. If you look at the pictures I posted you will see that I used a broadcloth that was similar to my fashion fabric color. I always flatline and bone my bodices.

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Well now SOME bodices were lined in silk... I have seen some very high end (read Worth) bodices done in a "lining" with just a pertersham exposed, but no seams to speak of...the victorian era was one of some real sewing inventiveness... I supose now I am gonna have to go dig one up... :re But the seams showing was definatly common.

[Tornado Alli]

If you think about it, it made more sense (and saved time) to leave the seams exposed. Dresses could easily be taken in or let out with the seams exposed, saving the time necessary to remove the lining. These bodices are made so snug that five pounds up or down can require alterations. I own one vintage bodice and it has been altered several times, as told by its poor seams!!!

I concur on the flatlining - Critcal step!

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Oh I do agree that it was the most common and sensible way to do it...just mentioning that occasionally you would see it dont differently...mostly as an...if you see one dont assume it is not an origional just because of that note to ebay fiends out there...LOL :w2

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

GG, I totally agree with you. The very wealthy could afford to have someone alter their dresses, so it didn't matter if the seams were exposed. And yes, a word to the wise Ebayer, just because you see a "vitnage" bodice with no lining, doesn't mean it is "vintage".

[NoGunz Kay]

Okay, Fannie, so what is the inside "belt" with d rings for? Please explain about that.
Thanks,
CK

[Hugh Damwright]

That's the "proper" way to do it! The class shows the "cheater's" way to do it :re .


GAMER !!!!!!!!! :rofl

[Pretty Mean Shawme]

GAMER !!!!!!!!! :rofl
Do I need to slap you too? http://images.animationfactory.com/imagedir/animations/people_a_l/couples/woman_slapping_man/woman_slapping_man_sm_nwm.gif

[Hugh Damwright]

Do I need to slap you too?

Feel free... but I'm gonna enjoy it a lot more than it hurts you !!! :ty

[Pretty Mean Shawme]

You are one sick puppy!:bump

[NoGunz Kay]

Here it is so far:

[NoGunz Kay]

and the bodice front

[NoGunz Kay]

last one:sleep

[Allie Mo]

Wow CK!

I love that deep rich purple.

Regards,

Allie Mo

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

OhhhhhhhI LOVE... I mean I just LOVE that color combo!!! Ohhhhh that pattern is just so attractive in every which way you can make it!!!!
;phone
The belt with D rings is a petersham, it holds the back of the bodice to the waist and keeps the bodice from pulling or riding up. Very period correct!:bow

Greeneyed ( ohhh lovin' the fringe!!) Gypsy

[Kitty Phann]

It is a wonderful dress....love the pattern, the color combination, the fringe. Great job! Can't wait to see it on you.

[Lizzie Marie]

That looks great....love the combinations....

[Coffee Em]

Kay, that is so elegant! Great use of trims, and I dig the--oh, drat, I'm sure there's a correct fashionista word for it, but the piece that hangs down where the overskirt is gathered up on the side, that's shaped sort of like a fancy parlor bell pull? Well, whatever it's called, that's just a yummy touch.

Cheers,
Coffee Em

[Pretty Mean Shawme]

Very pretty!

The colors I wanted for the alley!!!!

[Coffee Em]

But no, Nellie used her mind-control powers to get more BLUE!

(Dang, I coulda sworn I saw an evil-mastermind smilie around here somewhere...)

Cheers,
Coffee Em

[Hugh Damwright]

You are one sick puppy!

Yea but no one ever said that a sick puppy can't still be a happy puppy ! WOOF WOOF, Ma'am! :goofy

[NoGunz Kay]

Thank ye kindly for your words of encouragement. The bell pull things were sort of my husband's idea. I had cut those pieces off of the sides of the apron front, so they were extra stuff that I was playing with. I had gotten the tassels when I got the fabric from Hobby Lobby. Now here's the interesting part, the front and side backs are as cut from the 1872 bodice, but the back "tail" is the same shape just bigger than the tailpiece from the polonaise back. The back bustle is also from the polonaise, and the apron is from the tied sashes apron. I put this together before I got my last order of patterns from TV. I have enough to also make a bodice of the green of the underskirt, and of the purple of the bodice to make an underskirt, but would that be way too much purple? The cuffs with be made out of the same velvet as the collar with piping around them also. I have sewn in most of the boning so far, (this is why the question about the boning), now I'm wondering about the lining. It is interlined with a nice twill in grey, but the piping and fringes need to be enclosed in a seam, there is a lot of bulk there and I'm wondering if I can trim the excess parts of the piping and fringe or if I should leave it and possibly use the grograin ribbon idea from Fannie and PMS? I guess I'm afraid that the stuff will come out of the seam if I cut the excess off. Do ya'll see what I asking? If not, I'll take a pic and show you how much is in the seam at the hems.:sleep So let me hear back from ya'll.
CK

[Coffee Em]

Missy, did I see you write "too much purple"? What was goin' through your head? Heavens, you lie down until thoughts like that go away.

Cheers,
Coffee (who thinks highly of purple) Em

[Fannie Kikinshoot]

Okay, Fannie, so what is the inside "belt" with d rings for? Please explain about that.
Thanks,
CK
I'm sorry that I didn't see this until now. Yes, as GG explained, the "inside belt" is just that. It is called a petersham. You cinch it down, which holds your bodice in place so it doesn't rise out of place and it relieves all the pressure off the closure.

[Pretty Mean Shawme]

Missy, did I see you write "too much purple"? What was goin' through your head? Heavens, you lie down until thoughts like that go away.

Cheers,
Coffee (who thinks highly of purple) Em


:lool :bow :lool You crack me up!

[Pretty Mean Shawme]

Hi Ck, I would love to see just how much bulk you have before making a call on this one. I would also like to suggest a facing instead of ribbon for your finish on this one. We can get to that in a bit, but first let's see what kind of bulk you are talking.

[NoGunz Kay]

Okay, here is the best photography I can manage, being so close and all.

[NoGunz Kay]

I'm real sorry these are so blurry.

[Pretty Mean Shawme]

I wouldn't cut unless it is extremely bulky, you don't want to ruin the integrity of your fringe.

So... your next step, is to either sew a grossgrain ribbon on the right side, press it in and hand sew it up, or you can cut a facing and do the same type of thing, except you would only have to attach the facing at the seems and a few places along long stretches.

[Clancy]

Dont cut fringe. I learnt that lesson. I had some fringe on, trimmed the seam through the overlocker and it all just pulled out.It is made on a type of a loop, you cut the top, it will just all pull out and you will have to un pick and start again...:18

You could perhaps grade you other seams down by trimiing them to slightly different widths and just leave the fringe

[NoGunz Kay]

Okay, well I have a lining cut out for it, but according to ya'll, it should have been flat lined, and the lining is 100% cotton, so its not the lightest weight stuff either, and its beigey tan. So, if I use facings, cut them on the bias, miter the corners? and tack it down only on the seam allowances?
Coffee Em, I like purple too, but I was thinking that since this is a pinker purple, that some fabric I have, a dark plum, just like the green of the underskirt I have now, would make a nice alternative so folkes wouldn't instantly think of the "one eyed, one horned, flyin' purple people eater" when they see me coming.:re

[Coffee Em]

Oh, some folks, some foolish people, might think that. But as long as you've got two eyes, no horns, and have given up flying (at least in public), I for one will see you coming and think, instead, "Yummy! Purple gown! Want!" (Your alternatives sound way cool, too, though.)

And I think that fringe is soooooooo lovely.

Cheers,
Coffee Em

[NoGunz Kay]

Thank you Em, I love that fringe also, it was originally $4/yard, and I shopped and shopped, and shopped until I found it for $1/yard and then bought the whole spindle, 12 yards. I'll get a pic of the other dark plum and lay the purple on it so ya'll can see it also. :ty

[Greeneyed Gypsy]

Kay just a thought, for that particular pattern you will also have a need to tack the back pleats to the inside of the lining, you may want to just do the lining as recommend on the pattern for that one,I have made it and while I think the flatline facing method would work, if you have not already flatliked it, it may create an issue with said pleated part at the tail if there is no lining...just a thought...just because of the design of this pattern.

Cutting fringe...ACK! I had to redo a whole large section on my olive dress because I cut the fringe and it raveled on me, I thought well I will just burn the end to melt it next time...Rayon fringe! it burns like silk! No help there...FRAY CHECK! and tack under the end so it is send in neatly!! Ah yes lessons learned the hard way.

Greeneyed ( what learns something new every day!) Gypsy

[Coffee Em]

Hee, hee! Ah, the secrets these seam allowances could tell--but they'd better not!

Cheers,
Coffee Em

[NoGunz Kay]

Em, here is a pic of the two together.
CK

[Duzy Wales]

Calamity Kay, the dress is really pretty. I love the look of the fabric side by side that you just posted. How do you ladies find or where do you buy the fabrics that match but have a contrast to them? I have looked at a lot of silks, velvets....natural materials but have never found much that has a pattern as a contrast.:o :fb would be appreciated.

:ty Duzy

[Coffee Em]

Kay, you're right--that would look great!

Cheers,
Coffee Em

[Kitty Phann]

Kay,

Those fabrics look great together! Have to agree with Em on this case there is never to much purple.

[Pretty Mean Shawme]

Kay,

Those fabrics look great together! Have to agree with Em on this case there is never to much purple.

Then you are going to looooooove what I am working on for convention!!:yp

[Garnet Rose]

Calamity Kay, the dress is really pretty. I love the look of the fabric side by side that you just posted. How do you ladies find or where do you buy the fabrics that match but have a contrast to them? I have looked at a lot of silks, velvets....natural materials but have never found much that has a pattern as a contrast.:o :fb would be appreciated.

:ty DuzyDuzy, I sometimes fudge a little and have the wonderful folks at Banksville Designer Fabrics do it for me.

www.banksvilledesignerfabrics.com

Let 'em know what you're looking for and they'll do the digging for you.

[Duzy Wales]

:ty Garnet Rose for the link. I will check it out. By the way, if I haven't told you, I love your avatar....elegant, and so fitting for you alias. Duzy :)

[Garnet Rose]

:ty Duzy (blush)

[Shoot Straight Kate]

I have never put boning in my outfits.

[NoGunz Kay]

Why not?, love your dress by the way in your avatar.:)

[MsTFeathers]

I have found that if boning is not used the material may stretch out a bit or shrink when cleaned (had a dress fit perfectly till washed then it sagged). The boning helps keep the shape so well that I use it in all my bodices. I usually use the poly boning unless I need extra support.